# Mountain bike shifting technique



## Greg (Jun 6, 2008)

Total gaper MTB question. Are there any rules of thumb to shifting? I know you're not supposed to use the big chainring with the biggest sprocket or the small chainring with the smallest sprocket, but beyond that I just click around until I find a front/rear combo that works for whatever situation I'm in. I have to imagine there is a more elegant technique than that though. Any thoughts?


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## cbcbd (Jun 6, 2008)

Greg said:


> Are there any rules of thumb to shifting?


Yep, use your thumbs to shift 




Don't know of any rules other than going easy on the pedalling when you downshift. Also, if you have a lower gear to go to, go to it as opposed to trying to torque it out in a higher gear - much easier on the chain/drivetrain. Other than that, learn how to adjust your derailleurs and how to fine tune cable tension on the shifter - goes a long way when you have an annoying shifting problem that starts up mid ride.


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## bvibert (Jun 6, 2008)

I usually leave it the middle ring for most riding, you should be able to shift into all of the rear cogs without too much cross chaining issues.  I only use the small ring for big climbs (make sure you shift into it _before_ the climb starts) and then only use the 3 or so biggest cogs in the back.  The big ring only gets used when I hit the road or a particularly fast piece of fire road and use the 3 smallest cogs.


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## MR. evil (Jun 6, 2008)

Well the first thing I did with my bike was to yank off the big ring up front and replace it with a bash guard. The big ring is useless on the trails and this gives me more clearance. I also replaced my middle ring from a 32 tooth ring to a 36 tooth ring. Like has been mentioned try not to cross chain all the time, but everyonce in a while is not going to hurt. Try to anticipate what gears you will need before a big / steep climb as shifting while climbing can be a pain. Especially with Shimando ders. I have found that SRAM ders shift much quicker and sharper and have less issues when changing gears while climbing.

Also remember to use your gearing to regulate your heart rate and also rest your legs. When you are spinning really fast and your heart is racing shift into a higher gear. This will be harder on your legs but will give your heart rate a chance to recover.


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## marcski (Jun 6, 2008)

MR. evil said:


> . Try to anticipate what gears you will need before a big / steep climb as shifting while climbing can be a pain. Especially with Shimando ders. I have found that SRAM ders shift much quicker and sharper and have less issues when changing gears while climbing.



This is the main reason why Shimano went to the new "shadow" design for the rear derailleurs.  If you look at the SRAM's the cable goes directly into the derailleur.  The Shimanos would go beyond the derailleur and then curl back into it.  The new design (like the SRAM) is much better.   Plus it doesn't kick back into the frame on bumpy terrain.


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## Greg (Jun 6, 2008)

bvibert said:


> I usually leave it the middle ring for most riding, you should be able to shift into all of the rear cogs without too much cross chaining issues.  I only use the small ring for big climbs (make sure you shift into it _before_ the climb starts) and then only use the 3 or so biggest cogs in the back.  The big ring only gets used when I hit the road or a particularly fast piece of fire road and use the 3 smallest cogs.



Thank you Brian. This was exactly the kind of valuable advice I was looking for. Today, I totally ignored the big plate and that made things much easier. I always thought 24-27 gears on a mountain bike was a little silly, especially considering how much overlap there is. I kept it in the middle up front most of the time and only used the small guy a couple of times. Much better approach.



MR. evil said:


> Try to anticipate what gears you will need before a big / steep climb as shifting while climbing can be a pain.



I was much better at anticipating things this evening. I really enjoy the "mental" aspect to any sport/activity. Kinda like skiing in a sense where you have to look ahead and prepare for changes in terrain.



MR. evil said:


> Also remember to use your gearing to regulate your heart rate and also rest your legs. When you are spinning really fast and your heart is racing shift into a higher gear. This will be harder on your legs but will give your heart rate a chance to recover.



Good advice. I found myself doing this intuitively from time to time. I think I might be getting back into the mountain bike thing!


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## cbcbd (Jun 6, 2008)

For long bumpy downhill sections choose bigger gears to take up the chain slack and minimize chainslap - the chain hitting the chainstay, although usually more of an issue with FS. 

As for shifting, I used to keep it around 4-6 on the cogs and depending on the terrain I'd just switch between small and middle chainring - ie. have it on middle and 5th on a flat and then as hit the uphill just downshift to small ring and hit the uphill on 5th or 4th. I like doing that because it's a good way to go into an uphill with speed and change gears to low last second. 
On my trails around here I do often have to go into my small chainring/big cog for short uphill sections... but all that stuff depends on the trails and the bike gearing, so YMMV.


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## Greg (Jun 6, 2008)

cbcbd said:


> As for shifting, I used to keep it around 4-6 on the cogs and depending on the terrain I'd just switch between small and middle chainring - ie. have it on middle and 5th on a flat and then as hit the uphill just downshift to small ring and hit the uphill on 5th or 4th. I like doing that because it's a good way to go into an uphill with speed and change gears to low last second.



*This *is what I'm talking about! Nice. Thanks Doug. It's neat to see what others are doing. Again, sorry for such a newbie question.


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## MR. evil (Jun 6, 2008)

Greg said:


> *This *is what I'm talking about! Nice. Thanks Doug. It's neat to see what others are doing. Again, sorry for such a newbie question.



Greg you are going to find that there really is no right or wrong way. It is all personal preferance, what you ride, and where you ride. On some of the very technical rides I do my chain stays on the small chain ring the entire time and I am all over the rear cog. Sometimes I will stay on the middle ring the entire ride. It is just something you get a feel for over time. What works for me may not for you and vice versa.

Tommorrow morning I am riding with a guy that rides a single speed. You heard me, one gear in front and one in the back and no shifting. The guy is an animal and I will be struggling to keep up with him with all my gears. And we are not talking about some flat easy ride. I can promise several times I will gas before the top of some long technical climb and have to hike the rest of the way while he makes it up no problem.


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## Greg (Jun 7, 2008)

MR. evil said:


> Greg you are going to find that there really is no right or wrong way. It is all personal preferance, what you ride, and where you ride....It is just something you get a feel for over time. What works for me may not for you and vice versa.



Oh I'm sure, but some of the basic things are helpful. I'm a pathetic newbie, remember? Like forgoing the big ring; that might not have occurred to me for some time and I would have had that chain hopping all over the place as I tried to use every gear, so it's still useful to me to discuss the basics. At this point, I'm willing to try anything to help me become a more efficient rider. This stuff is all intuitive to you guys, but I'm still a bit of a gaper.


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## cbcbd (Jun 7, 2008)

I understand, when I was getting back into mtb seriously I asked the same question to my experienced mtb friend. I also enjoy the technical aspects of mtb and for some reason can't just go into it without wanting to learn if there is a proper or better way to do things - like shifting.


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## Greg (Jun 9, 2008)

cbcbd said:


> I understand, when I was getting back into mtb seriously I asked the same question to my experienced mtb friend. I also enjoy the technical aspects of mtb and for some reason can't just go into it without wanting to learn if there is a proper or better way to do things - like shifting.



Thanks. Glad I'm not the only one....


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## Greg (Jul 21, 2008)

Greg said:


> Total gaper MTB question.



Yes, it was, dork. :lol:

Pretty interesting looking back at this. Especailly since the thread is only six weeks old. I feel I've come a long way. For most of the riding I do, I've found that I try to stay on the middle ring as much as possible and will only shift up to the 4th or 5th cog, unless I'm on a very fast downhill where I think I might want a higher gear. I'll jump on to the granny gear on tough climbs or real techy sections, but I try to get back to the middle ring as soon as possible. I've also been able to stay on the middle ring more and more as my technique (read: more balls) has improved.


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## eatskisleep (Jul 21, 2008)

while climbing, if you sit while shifting, you put less strain on the drivetrain then if you were mashing on the pedals.


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## Greg (Jul 21, 2008)

eatskisleep said:


> while climbing, if you sit while shifting, you put less strain on the drivetrain then if you were mashing on the pedals.



I'm usually sitting anyway, unless I am in a situation when I need a bit of "thrust" and am confident I can hold traction while standing for a bit.


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## Trekchick (Jul 21, 2008)

Short Answer, go SS and you won't have to worry about it.


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## Marc (Jul 22, 2008)

Trekchick said:


> Short Answer, go SS and you won't have to worry about it.



Just worry about your knees.


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