# Tuning question



## gmcunni (Sep 18, 2009)

Sorry, not much of a ski gear head and could use some simple advice.

picked up a new pair of Nordica skis in March last season. Skied a few times at the end of the season but no significant base damage was done.  For the start of this coming season is wax and sharpen sufficient or should i get the stone grinding done as well?


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## RootDKJ (Sep 18, 2009)

I'd just wax and de-burr the edges with diamond stone, unless you are thinking about changing the angles


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## snowmonster (Sep 18, 2009)

No need for a stone grind unless the bases are scarred and scratched. Check for burrs or dings on the edges. Check the sharpness of the edges. If they are dull, sharpen them with a file or diamond stone. Wax 'em. Good to go.


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## gmcunni (Sep 18, 2009)

RootDKJ said:


> unless you are thinking about changing the angles



why would one do that?


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## RootDKJ (Sep 18, 2009)

gmcunni said:


> why would one do that?


Different angles = different grip.  I think most shaped skis come out  1/2 or 1/3.  1/3 will grip on hard pack just a little better, but a little tougher to engage and will wear quicker iirc.


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## mondeo (Sep 18, 2009)

I suggest a 2/0. But that's just me.


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## Puck it (Sep 19, 2009)

RootDKJ said:


> Different angles = different grip. I think most shaped skis come out 1/2 or 1/3. 1/3 will grip on hard pack just a little better, but a little tougher to engage and will wear quicker iirc.


 
I use a 1 degree on the base angle and 3 degrees on the edge.  The base can be set very easily with a 12" flat mill bastard file.  I wrap two thicknesses of masking tape on the file so that rides on one edge while it shrpens the other and then repeat for other edge.  For the edge, you will need a edge tool.  No way around it.  They are about $20.  These usually can be set from 0 to  5 degrees.  After that simply deburr with a stone and then wax away.  I do not kbow what Nordica uses for the factory edges off the top of my head though.


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## thetrailboss (Sep 19, 2009)

snowmonster said:


> No need for a stone grind unless the bases are scarred and scratched. Check for burrs or dings on the edges. Check the sharpness of the edges. If they are dull, sharpen them with a file or diamond stone. Wax 'em. Good to go.



+ 1.  If you are doing it yourself, just edge and wax.  If you are taking it to a shop, it won't hurt to do the SG, but you don't have to.


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## Puck it (Sep 19, 2009)

thetrailboss said:


> + 1. If you are doing it yourself, just edge and wax. If you are taking it to a shop, it won't hurt to do the SG, but you don't have to.


 

Only stone grind when the bases get really scratched up.  Stone grinds only decrease the life expectancy of the ski.


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## bigbog (Sep 19, 2009)

Pretty obvious...but,
Get your base/edge surfaces as flat as possible to begin with whether stone-grinding or not.  Makes the follow-up of beveling and sharpening results worry-free.  Really fill-in anything between base and edge fully...remember once outside everything contracts slightly with cold temps.

$.01


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## RootDKJ (Sep 19, 2009)

mondeo said:


> I suggest a 2/0. But that's just me.


I've not met many folks who use those angles.  What's the pros/cons?


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## mondeo (Sep 19, 2009)

RootDKJ said:


> I've not met many folks who use those angles.  What's the pros/cons?


Yarr, it be for scallywags that want to feather thur edges and be quick side-to-side. Scurvy dog bump skiers be the ones to use it. Shiver me timbers.


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## andrec10 (Sep 19, 2009)

As long as your bases are flat, you can just sharpen your edges. If they are not flat, get em stone ground flat. I use 1 for base and 3 for the sides. Best tune around is Peak Performance in Killington IMHO.


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## andyzee (Sep 19, 2009)

I typically stone grind once a year at the beginning of the season. If you got the skis at the end of last season and bases aren't bad, don't bother.


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## MR. evil (Sep 19, 2009)

Puck it said:


> Stone grinds only decrease the life expectancy of the ski.



I wonder if that's why ski shops push them so heavily. You will
need a new pair of skis sooner.


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## wa-loaf (Sep 19, 2009)

RootDKJ said:


> I'd just wax and de-burr the edges with diamond stone, unless you are thinking about changing the angles



If the base looks ok outside a few shallow scratches leave it alone. Give it a stone grind mid season. You probably want to stick with the factory angles if you are happy with the skis.



mondeo said:


> I suggest a 2/0. But that's just me.



Prob not a good idea unless you want to ski bumps and skid on ice.



andrec10 said:


> As long as your bases are flat, you can just sharpen your edges. If they are not flat, get em stone ground flat. I use 1 for base and 3 for the sides. Best tune around is Peak Performance in Killington IMHO.



Best for edge hold, but also wears off faster requiring tunes more often.



MR. evil said:


> I wonder if that's why ski shops push them so heavily. You will
> need a new pair of skis sooner.



No I think they just need to pay for the pricey machines and it's a nice mark-up.


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## marcski (Sep 19, 2009)

wa-loaf said:


> If the base looks ok outside a few shallow scratches leave it alone. Give it a stone grind mid season. You probably want to stick with the factory angles if you are happy with the skis.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Well, said...I tend to hold of the stone grinds as much as possible and just put it toward the new ski kiddy!


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## gmcunni (Sep 20, 2009)

thanks for all the info. i'll go with wax/sharpen to start the season. hopefully i'll ski enough to warrant a mid-season tuneup and will consider the stone grinding then.


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## RootDKJ (Sep 20, 2009)

mondeo said:


> Yarr, it be for scallywags that want to feather thur edges and be quick side-to-side. Scurvy dog bump skiers be the ones to use it. Shiver me timbers.


Well done.  Since I don't plan on hitting many bumps, I'll stick with 2/1 or 3/1 if we're in a nasty freeze/thaw pattern.


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## RootDKJ (Sep 20, 2009)

gmcunni said:


> thanks for all the info. i'll go with wax/sharpen to start the season. hopefully i'll ski enough to warrant a mid-season tuneup and will consider the stone grinding then.


No problem.  Tuning is a lot of fun, and you get to drink beer while you're at it.


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## snowmonster (Sep 20, 2009)

Reminds me to get my ski bench out of storage and put on the vises. Any day now.


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## Glenn (Sep 21, 2009)

This is a great tool for base work: http://skivisions.us/504.html

http://www.tognar.com/base_flattening_structuring_tools_scrapers_ski_snowboard.html


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## billski (Sep 21, 2009)

More aggressive angles are good for racing, especially rutted and  icy conditions, which is often the case.  Hang around racers, you'll meet plenty who do this.


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## SKIQUATTRO (Sep 25, 2009)

Friday night mid winter tuning when everyone is asleep...me, skis, bottle of Merlot, smell of melting ski wax, ESPN on the TV....one of life's simple pleasures.


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## CleanCarve (Oct 10, 2009)

*Diamond stones are the way to go*

I highly recommend a diamond stone over a file to keep you skis in good shape.
They are small enough to carry with you in your pocket and are available with a guide to keep the angle right.  Check out the ones on offer at http://www.cleancarve.com


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## mondeo (Oct 10, 2009)

CleanCarve said:


> I highly recommend a diamond stone over a file to keep you skis in good shape.
> They are small enough to carry with you in your pocket and are available with a guide to keep the angle right.  Check out the ones on offer at http://www.cleancarve.com


But can they open cans of processed meat?


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