# Marker Duke vs. Alpine Trekker



## Hawkshot99 (Sep 24, 2007)

I need to get some new bindings for this year.  i plan on doing some light touring with the setup I get, but mostly on pist.  Like 90% trails I would say.

The two option I have considered are another pair of Axial(I really like them).  I know these will handle great for the trail days.  With the axials get a pair of Alpine trekkers and bring them with me on the days that I plan to ski away from the mountain.  From what i have read these will work well for what I want to do with them.(Not true touring, but some skinning.)

The other option I ave is the new Marker Duke.  A real tough version of a AT binding.  Too heavy for true touring, but much stronger.  This option would save me from having to carry the trekkers in my pack and having to install/uninstall them.  My only concern is if they will hold up to all the trail skiing.  They seem pretty strong, and from what i have read they are strong, but......

I know the axial will be awesome for everything, have had a few pairs.  The Trekkers will be good for the light AT trips, and be transferable between skis, But require packing them around and cost me more.  The markers will save weight and be cool, but are they strong enough?


Price wise the Markers would most likely be a cheaper route.  I don't know specifics but I'm guessing much cheaper


Marker Duke

Alpine Trekker


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## riverc0il (Sep 25, 2007)

If you plan on getting new bindings this year, you can rule out the Marker Duke. I hear its already sold out. The Dukes are more on piste binding than tour binding and lean more towards sidecountry with minimal touring. You need to step out of the binding completely to switch gears unlike other rando bindings. The trekkers will cost you a lot less than the marker dukes unless you plan to upgrade to full AT eventually. I am curious why you think the Marker Duke would be the cheaper option. You got a line on something? What is your intended use? If it is mostly just sidecountry and no more than a few hundred feet of uphill at a time, just get the trekkers which is not a suggestion I make very often.


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## Marc (Sep 25, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> If you plan on getting new bindings this year, you can rule out the Marker Duke. I hear its already sold out. The Dukes are more on piste binding than tour binding and lean more towards sidecountry with minimal touring. You need to step out of the binding completely to switch gears unlike other rando bindings. The trekkers will cost you a lot less than the marker dukes unless you plan to upgrade to full AT eventually. I am curious why you think the Marker Duke would be the cheaper option. You got a line on something? What is your intended use? If it is mostly just sidecountry and no more than a few hundred feet of uphill at a time, just get the trekkers which is not a suggestion I make very often.



The man knows what he's talking about.


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## eastcoastpowderhound (Sep 25, 2007)

The Dukes aren't sold out....Marker may be sold out, but there are plenty left in the retail pipeline.  You're comparing the cost of Axials and trekkers to the cost of the Duke I'm guessing.  I'd say go for the duke...trekkers are a much bigger pain in the ass than having to step out of the duke to switch to AT mode...you'd have to step out, pull the trekkers out of your pack, snap them in, then step into them and be an inch and a half higher and a couple of pounds heavier...much more of a pain in the ass than the duke.  You're gonna have to put your skins on anyway...haven't seen too many people able to do that while keeping their skis on.  Plus the duke is wider at the base and has a narrower mounting point than the new Axials...and skis very well on the hardpack...you already said you're not looking to do a ton of touring...so the minimal hassle factor of the duke shouldn't deter you.  Its strong enough...at least appears to be a burly binding...and 6-16 din is a good indication.  Trekkers suck, do the duke.


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## wa-loaf (Sep 25, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> I am curious why you think the Marker Duke would be the cheaper option.



Marker duke vs. New Bindings + Alpine Trekkers. Probably come out about even. I think he works in a shop and can get pro-form on some of these, so his costs might be different.


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## SkiDog (Sep 25, 2007)

Check the clearance on trekkers with those axials...I believe the axials are a look binder with a high back...when I used with Trekkers (look p12's) it was difficult..

I'd say that unless you're dropping bombers in the BC (like 20ft plus) you'd be fine with any of the other randonee binders out there. Naxo nx21, Fritschi Freerides, dynafit's, etc...you can usually find deals on slightly used ones here and there...keep an eye out. I'd say though go with touring binders not trekkers you'll tire of trekkers quickly.

M


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## Hawkshot99 (Sep 25, 2007)

wa-loaf said:


> Marker duke vs. New Bindings + Alpine Trekkers. Probably come out about even. I think he works in a shop and can get pro-form on some of these, so his costs might be different.



Yes I do.  Can Proform on either the Axial or Duke, but still need to pay full price for the trekkers on top of the axials.

It will be a side country setup, not full on touring.  Couple hundred feet.


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## riverc0il (Sep 25, 2007)

wa-loaf said:


> Marker duke vs. New Bindings + Alpine Trekkers. Probably come out about even. I think he works in a shop and can get pro-form on some of these, so his costs might be different.


Ah, I missed that part, must have read too fast. If you are going to buy a whole new binding in addition to the trekkers, probably better just to go with something like the Duke. Nx21 would be a slightly less beefier option if you can't get the Duke though for primarily on piste, I much prefer an alpine binding which probably indicates you should go for the Duke if you can get it, especially on a pro form.


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## Hawkshot99 (Sep 25, 2007)

Thankyou I will check on what i can do.  Thanks.


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## lloyd braun (Sep 27, 2007)

I would say go with the Duke. It will be fine for on piste. The only draw back to the duke, nx21, freeride, etc is that they create a flat spot on the ski. It will make your ski seem longer, keep that in mind.


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## Marc (Sep 27, 2007)

lloyd braun said:


> I would say go with the Duke. It will be fine for on piste. The only draw back to the duke, nx21, freeride, etc is that they create a flat spot on the ski. It will make your ski seem longer, keep that in mind.



Don't all bindings without a floating heel piece do that, regardless of whether they're AT or alpine?


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## Hawkshot99 (Sep 27, 2007)

Marc said:


> Don't all bindings without a floating heel piece do that, regardless of whether they're AT or alpine?



I believe so. You have both a heel and toe screwed into the ski, and a bot creating a flat spot inbetwen


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## riverc0il (Sep 27, 2007)

I find that the height of the binding off the ski enhances that flat spot that llyod braun mentions. I have identical skis with P12s and Freerides and the P12 ski definitely gives me better feed back and reaction though I think most skiers wouldn't notice too much difference. It would be nice to have a lower stack height but seems like designers can't get around the pivot point without the higher stack.


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## Marc (Sep 27, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> I find that the height of the binding off the ski enhances that flat spot that llyod braun mentions. I have identical skis with P12s and Freerides and the P12 ski definitely gives me better feed back and reaction though I think most skiers wouldn't notice too much difference. It would be nice to have a lower stack height but seems like designers can't get around the pivot point without the higher stack.



Uh oh, you sound dangerously close to going Dynafit on us... well it's ok.  That's what John Tierney skis (with his beautiful BD Havoc's).  So they can't be all bad.


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## riverc0il (Sep 28, 2007)

GRide=Non-Dynafit Compliant.


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## Grassi21 (Sep 28, 2007)

On average, what would a decent touring set-up cost?  Down the line I hope to be hitting the same type of terrain Hawkshot described.  I know there are a few BC type threads on here but I'm too lazy to do a search.  I guess the short shopping list would include bindings and skis.  Beyond that what else, boots ?????


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## SkiDog (Sep 28, 2007)

Grassi21 said:


> On average, what would a decent touring set-up cost?  Down the line I hope to be hitting the same type of terrain Hawkshot described.  I know there are a few BC type threads on here but I'm too lazy to do a search.  I guess the short shopping list would include bindings and skis.  Beyond that what else, boots ?????




Large freerides on sale at bdel.com for $250 or something I think NEW...

You can usually troll websites for deals on used... think TGR....I just picked up a pair 3rd pair of naxo nx 01's for $125 off tgr..

M


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## Marc (Sep 28, 2007)

SkiDog said:


> Large freerides on sale at bdel.com for $250 or something I think NEW...
> 
> You can usually troll websites for deals on used... think TGR....I just picked up a pair 3rd pair of naxo nx 01's for $125 off tgr..
> 
> M



I bought mine off a dude at TGR too... NIB Freerides, 2 years old, $200.  He was local too so I just picked them up in person.


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## SkiDog (Sep 28, 2007)

Marc said:


> I bought mine off a dude at TGR too... NIB Freerides, 2 years old, $200.  He was local too so I just picked them up in person.



TGR got the deals YO...if you can put up with the "noise" level on that board there are good deals to be had AND great information.

M


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## riverc0il (Sep 28, 2007)

Grassi21 said:


> On average, what would a decent touring set-up cost?  Down the line I hope to be hitting the same type of terrain Hawkshot described.  I know there are a few BC type threads on here but I'm too lazy to do a search.  I guess the short shopping list would include bindings and skis.  Beyond that what else, boots ?????


Depends how you want to approach it... piece meal slowly (more expensive in the long run often times but rather cheap in the short run) or just sinking money into the whole thing. As an absolute minimum, you need a releasable heel, skins, telescoping poles, a pack, and layers. Trekkers are a short term cheap purchase but most people usually discard them eventually so it is more expensive to buy trekkers in the long run. You can get bindings that work with alpine boots (which I did for my first earned turn season) but doing so may limit you long term (e.g. I might be interested in Dynafit now that I am more experienced). Skins, get the good stuff and pay lots, don't skimp. Touring poles are about $60ish for something decent. Pack and layers depends on what you have. I would suggest a bare minimum of a $500 investment if you use alpine boots and deal hunt though you are probably looking at more.


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## Grassi21 (Sep 28, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> Depends how you want to approach it... piece meal slowly (more expensive in the long run often times but rather cheap in the short run) or just sinking money into the whole thing. As an absolute minimum, you need a releasable heel, skins, telescoping poles, a pack, and layers. Trekkers are a short term cheap purchase but most people usually discard them eventually so it is more expensive to buy trekkers in the long run. You can get bindings that work with alpine boots (which I did for my first earned turn season) but doing so may limit you long term (e.g. I might be interested in Dynafit now that I am more experienced). Skins, get the good stuff and pay lots, don't skimp. Touring poles are about $60ish for something decent. Pack and layers depends on what you have. I would suggest a bare minimum of a $500 investment if you use alpine boots and deal hunt though you are probably looking at more.



I have some of the cheaper stuff covered (pair of indigo - epics poles that i got for $50 on SAC, pack, and layers).  So that leaves skins and binding.  I'd have to upgrade skis as well.  Right now I have just 67 underfoot.  

Any models of bindings or skins should I research?

Thanks for the info guys.


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## riverc0il (Sep 28, 2007)

If you are planning on using Alpine boot instead of buying AT boots you would be limited to the Naxo, Freeride, and Duke (I think the Pure is Alpine compatible too, but don't quote me). If you want to buy touring boots, you can look at lower end fritschi's and dynafits amongst a few others. You don't "need" to upgrade you skis. There certainly is not "minimum" width ski to have for touring. Though most touring rigs generally lean between the mid-fat to lower-fat range in the east. Skins you are looking at $130+. Don't skimp, G3 or BD's top end only.


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## awf170 (Sep 28, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> If you are planning on using Alpine boot instead of buying AT boots you would be limited to the Naxo, Freeride, and Duke (I think the Pure is Alpine compatible too, but don't quote me). If you want to buy touring boots, you can look at lower end fritschi's and dynafits amongst a few others. You don't "need" to upgrade you skis. There certainly is not "minimum" width ski to have for touring. Though most touring rigs generally lean between the mid-fat to lower-fat range in the east. Skins you are looking at $130+. Don't skimp, G3 or BD's top end only.



I'm pretty sure lower end Fritschi work just fine with alpine boots.  Also, have you ever used a lower end skin?  Everyone always says go for edge to edge coverage, but I don't see that huge of a difference.  I have never used anything but edge to edge coverage, but have skied with some one who only had skinny kicker skins, and I was only able to skin slightly further before boot-packing.  To me it didn't look like that huge of a difference.  (I'm probably one the worst skinners ever though.  So keep that in mind.)  My guess is that a straight 60mm skin would be fine on most stuff you plan on doing.    (Check ebay and TGR, you can get them quite cheap.  I just got a pair for $20)  Just my pretty uniformed opinion on this matter.

Also, I find adjustable poles to be pretty useless.  I don't think I adjusted them in my past 5 or so tours.  Though some people swear by them, all personal preference I guess.


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## riverc0il (Sep 28, 2007)

I would be more concerned about the glue, durability, and maximum angle due to quality of skin. When I say don't skimp, I mean don't skimp within your desired width size. I would never not go wall to wall, I am too aggressive in my approaches for anything less.


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## Marc (Sep 28, 2007)

awf170 said:


> I'm pretty sure lower end Fritschi work just fine with alpine boots.  Also, have you ever used a lower end skin?  Everyone always says go for edge to edge coverage, but I don't see that huge of a difference.  I have never used anything but edge to edge coverage, but have skied with some one who only had skinny kicker skins, and I was only able to skin slightly further before boot-packing.  To me it didn't look like that huge of a difference.  (I'm probably one the worst skinners ever though.  So keep that in mind.)  My guess is that a straight 60mm skin would be fine on most stuff you plan on doing.    (Check ebay and TGR, you can get them quite cheap.  I just got a pair for $20)  Just my pretty uniformed opinion on this matter.



Yes, because on steep stuff, I've never seen you slip backwards at all or anything... :dunce:

Well, like Austin said, skin width is only one element determining the friction your skin produces, but the big step up in traction, I have a feeling, probably comes with the use of ski crampons.  Something I'd like to add to my gear choice.



awf170 said:


> Also, I find adjustable poles to be pretty useless.  I don't think I adjusted them in my past 5 or so tours.  Though some people swear by them, all personal preference I guess.



YES.  I know I'm influencing you towards the duct tape grips!  You know you want them!


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## SkiDog (Oct 1, 2007)

Marc said:


> Yes, because on steep stuff, I've never seen you slip backwards at all or anything...



I think the most important part that needs to be edge to edge is underfoot.....thats where the most pressure is going to be...

just my $.02

M


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## Hawkshot99 (Oct 1, 2007)

Well even though I wanted the Marker Dukes, I don't think I will be getting them.  Our shop had to special order a pair for a customer and it will be December before they are in according to Marker:blink:.  That wont work for me, so it will most likely be the Axials for me.:angry:


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## riverc0il (Oct 1, 2007)

You don't have another pair to use until December? Think long term here, man... if the Duke is what you want then go for the Duke. Especially if you want something to enable you to do touring because you are just going to end up buying an AT binding eventually any ways if that is your ultimate goal.


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## Hawkshot99 (Oct 1, 2007)

riverc0il said:


> You don't have another pair to use until December? Think long term here, man... if the Duke is what you want then go for the Duke. Especially if you want something to enable you to do touring because you are just going to end up buying an AT binding eventually any ways if that is your ultimate goal.



I do have my race skis.  Ill see if it is even on the proform.  Marker may not put it there if they are all sold for full price.


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