# DIY Waxing



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 5, 2011)

I am thinking about getting into DIY waxing.  Tamdock has this kit right now.  

http://www.tramdock.com/?cmp_id=ODAL_RSS8001&mv_pc=r285&cmp_sku=SWI0420&avad=1232_e1398613

Is this a decent setup to start?  Obviously the iron is the most important part of the setup.  Is this iron good to start with?

any help is appreciated.

thanks

Kevin


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 5, 2011)

The pricing for that package is good.  Typically that iron (swix sport iron) goes for $79 alone.  That being said you can get the swix economy iron for cheaper and still get the same result.


----------



## thetrailboss (Jan 5, 2011)

I agree.  That is a good deal.  That is a good iron to go with--a basic one like mine.  Hell, I used to use a clothes iron and it worked.  But ski irons are best because they have the temperatures marked on them and provide a more stable temperature.  Get yourself a diamond stone and a steel/nylon structure brush and I say you are good to go!


----------



## thetrailboss (Jan 5, 2011)

Only other things you will need are a sharpener and a vice.  A standard file and a shop vice will suffice.


----------



## gmcunni (Jan 5, 2011)

i ordered one.


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 5, 2011)

thetrailboss said:


> But ski irons are best because they have the temperatures marked on them and provide a more stable temperature.!



And they don't have steam holes!



thetrailboss said:


> Get yourself a diamond stone and a steel/nylon structure brush and I say you are good to go!



This and a few scotchbrite pads for the final buff.


----------



## gmcunni (Jan 5, 2011)

thetrailboss said:


> a steel/nylon structure brush


what the brush for? 




BeanoNYC said:


> This and a few scotchbrite pads for the final buff.


long ago i waxed my skis but never buffed when i was done, will give that a try as i get back into it.


anyone know a good site (haven't checked youtube yet) for videos on proper technique for waxing?


----------



## marcski (Jan 5, 2011)

I use a 40 year old GE iron and a $2.50 soft steel brush from Home Depot.  Works like a charm.  Over the years I found that it works great when I leave it between settings 2 and 3, silk and rayon.


----------



## thetrailboss (Jan 5, 2011)

The nylon/steel brush will create 'structure' for your base.  Those are the grooves in your base.  It also strips excess wax.  e.g. http://www.gearwest.com/swix-steel-wax-brush-pr-8908612.html'

As to videos, check with Swix or Togner.


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 5, 2011)

gmcunni said:


> long ago i waxed my skis but never buffed when i was done, will give that a try as i get back into it.



Honestly, it doesn't do much except make it look like a nice professional job.  If I'm doing a friend's ski, I will do it for the "wow" factor.  On my own skis I'll do it to make the task longer thus enabling me to drink another beer.  I really enjoy tuning!



thetrailboss said:


> The nylon/steel brush will create 'structure' for your base.



I will typically use my structure bar for the base but the steel brush for the first pass when removing excess wax.


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 5, 2011)

thanks for the advice all.  I ordered one.  I figure this will pay for itself by the end of the season easily! 

I'm not sure I'm ready for the whole sharpening the edges yet.  Is that really something to be afraid of?


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 5, 2011)

jimmywilson69 said:


> I'm not sure I'm ready for the whole sharpening the edges yet.  Is that really something to be afraid of?



If you get some nice stones, and bevel guides to start with you will be ok.  Worse case scenario you dull the edge and have them sharpened at a shop.  I would stay away from using a file until you are sure of what you are doing.


----------



## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 5, 2011)

in the basement with a bottle of Merlot tuning now......


----------



## marcski (Jan 5, 2011)

SKIQUATTRO said:


> in the basement with a bottle of Merlot tuning now......



Merlot?  IMHO, the only merlot that should be consumed while tuning (or perhaps otherwise, but that is a whole other can of worms) is the grapeless, carbonated variety made with lots of hops.  

Either way, there is nothing like the smell of hot wax while imbibing in whatever may be your favorite drink of choice.


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 6, 2011)

I have some old straight skis laying around, should I practice on those first?  Is there really any way to screw up my skis royally?

I checked out the videos on Swix and they seem pretty informative.  I have also watched a buddy do it before as well.


----------



## deadheadskier (Jan 6, 2011)

I purchased this for this season:

http://www.swixshop.com/mm5/merchan...&Product_Code=F4060&Category_Code=swix-f4-wax

I used it on Sunday during the heat wave and it seemed to help some.  Kind of a cheater alternative if you don't have a full home set up with iron.


----------



## jaja111 (Jan 6, 2011)

BeanoNYC said:


> And they don't have steam holes!



You mean "excess wax reservoirs"? My iron cost $2 at a garage sale. The only actual ski tuning item I have used that hasn't been something found for far cheaper in a similar form or concept to the original "waxing" tool is this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/INNOVATIVE-NEW-...=250733907458&ps=63&clkid=6177577212718848642

It works as advertised and saves wax. Its great for getting the first excess wax off and then I use a regular scraper for the remainder.


----------



## dl (Jan 6, 2011)

Consider saving yourself some time, effort and wax by using the Wax Wizard from Ray's Way. See http://alpineskituning.com/cms/. Mike at SkiMD turned me on to this and I've been using it for the past two seasons. I use it on my kid's race skis as well. Rub the wax on (Dominator all temperature), "heat" it in using the wizard and brush out the excess with a good quality set of brushes. Amazing how little wax you use. Of course you don't get the smell of a hot wax job......


----------



## drjeff (Jan 6, 2011)

jimmywilson69 said:


> I have some old straight skis laying around, should I practice on those first?  Is there really any way to screw up my skis royally?
> 
> I checked out the videos on Swix and they seem pretty informative.  I have also watched a buddy do it before as well.



Go for it on the real skis.  It really is quite hard to screw up waxing a pair of skis!  Just keep the iron at a medium low setting, and then pretty much as long as you don't leave a hot wax iron sitting directly on your skis for say the amount of time it would take you to goto the store, buy a 6 pack, drink the 6 pack, and then order a take out meal and then eat that, without moving the iron you won't screw it up!


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 7, 2011)

drjeff said:


> Go for it on the real skis.  It really is quite hard to screw up waxing a pair of skis!  Just keep the iron at a medium low setting, and then pretty much as long as you don't leave a hot wax iron sitting directly on your skis for say the amount of time it would take you to goto the store, buy a 6 pack, drink the 6 pack, and then order a take out meal and then eat that, without moving the iron you won't screw it up!



HA HA HA :lol::lol:

thanks for the words of encouragement!  It looks that easy, but I just want to make sure!


----------



## drjeff (Jan 7, 2011)

jimmywilson69 said:


> HA HA HA :lol::lol:
> 
> thanks for the words of encouragement!  It looks that easy, but I just want to make sure!



And FYI, the only reason why I said a medium-low setting for the iron, isn't because you'll screw up the base material at a higher setting, but with some WAXES at high temps, you'll screw up the chemistry in the wax that wants to make it glide easier 

Just remember, the number 1, most important thing abotu tuning your skis, ......... having a beer while doing so is pretty much mandatory!    :beer:


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 7, 2011)

I've got half a case of Loose Cannon IPA (from Baltimore MD) and I will probably have a case of Troegs Nugget Nectar (Imperial Pale Ale) by the time the kit arrives next week. 

I will be fully stocked and ready to tune, well wax anyways!


----------



## gmcunni (Jan 13, 2011)

UPS got back on the ball after the snow storm and my kit arrived today.  checked my ski bases and they were fine but i decided to wax them anyway.  

checked out some video on a few tuning sites to make sure i had the right idea.  I'd wax my ski all the time 20 years ago and it doesn't seem like things have changed.  The only difference is i used to use a ton of wax, melting almost a whole bar and really slathering it on.

everything seemed to go well. i'll find out Saturday when i use them.   i think i will get a scotch-brite pad to buff them next time.


----------



## ClownSki (Jan 19, 2011)

so if i have spots of wax i can see in the light in some areas on my base does that indicate i didn't scrap enough off?


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 19, 2011)

ClownSki said:


> so if i have spots of wax i can see in the light in some areas on my base does that indicate i didn't scrap enough off?



Yep.  Give it another go on those spots with a scraper and brush.


----------



## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 20, 2011)

need to get me a new scraper....last night i deburred and gave a quick file to all 7 pairs of skis....tomorrow night they'll all get waxed, scraped and brushed (with a few beers of course!)


----------



## drjeff (Jan 21, 2011)

SKIQUATTRO said:


> need to get me a new scraper....last night i deburred and gave a quick file to all 7 pairs of skis....tomorrow night they'll all get waxed, scraped and brushed (with a few beers of course!)



Quick plastic scraper rejuvination trick.

Take a sheet of medium grit sand paper and place it on a hard, flat surface.  Grab your plastic scraper and hold it perpendicular to the sand paper.  Give it a couple of passes across the sand paper. You've now got a nice fresh, clean scrpaing edge on it again 

Or, for most folks that aren't high level racers, unless you're anticipating your next ski day to be on wet snow where base structure will be advantageous,  as long as your iron work has left wax surface atleast 90% smooth and flat,  don't bother scraping, since you won't notice any difference in your skis performance if the wax isn't scraped and structured. :idea:


----------



## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 21, 2011)

thx doc..


----------



## mondeo (Jan 21, 2011)

Just make sure to apply the wax evenly, and let it cool just a little before removing. I prefer to take it off quickly, seems to be the easiest way to do it. I'm not sure about all this stuff with steel wool and scraping though. Sounds masochistic.

After doing it a couple times, you should feel comfortable enough to start playing around with different shapes. Have fun with it.

Wait, skis? Who waxes skis?


----------



## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 21, 2011)

mondeo...hot waxing, as you are doing, pulls dirt and junk from your bases which is good every now and then...to make sure the wax penetrates the base and stays, you need to let it cool, then scrape/brush...

with your method, you arent really giving the ski a good wax that'll last....


----------



## mondeo (Jan 21, 2011)

SKIQUATTRO said:


> mondeo...hot waxing, as you are doing, pulls dirt and junk from your bases which is good every now and then...to make sure the wax penetrates the base and stays, you need to let it cool, then scrape/brush...
> 
> with your method, you arent really giving the ski a good wax that'll last....


Huh. I know certain parts of South America that swear by this method. Specifically, it's the only way it's done in Brazil.


----------



## billski (Jan 21, 2011)

drjeff said:


> don't bother scraping, since you won't notice any difference in your skis performance if the wax isn't scraped and structured. :idea:



I must be doing something wrong then.  I tried not scraping once and it was like having brakes on for the first several hundred feet.  I went back to scraping.


----------



## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 21, 2011)

hmmmmmmmm, brazilian hot wax.....yummy...

you can get away with not scraping in the spring as the coarse snow will eat away the wax rather quickly...life lesson learned last spring at SB..


----------



## hammer (Jan 21, 2011)

Sorry if this has been asked before, but what do you need to do the clean the bases?


----------



## mondeo (Jan 21, 2011)

hammer said:


> Sorry if this has been asked before, but what do you need to do the clean the bases?


Just brushing them with a nylon is usually enough. Every once in a while, melting on a spring wax and then quickly scraping it off is a more throrough cleaning.

Basically, see skiquattro's straight man response to my innuendo post.


----------



## hammer (Jan 23, 2011)

I was hoping to go on the cheap, but they had an iron for $39 at Ken Jones which seemed to be a decent price.  Then the wax, and the scraper, and the brush...all added up but I now have what I need.

Just got finished tuning and the bases don't look as pretty as I'd like, but they have a coat of wax on them and they've been scraped, buffed, and brushed. For the cold temps, I went with the blue wax which was a pain to melt onto the skis and scrape off...and I know I used more wax than I could have.  As long as I didn't do anything to make them dangerous for racing tomorrow night I'm satisfied.


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Jan 29, 2011)

I want to get my ski's sharpened before I head up to Killington next week.  I'm going to get that done at a shop (I'm not ready to do the edges yet).  should I do this before I wax the skis?


----------



## BeanoNYC (Jan 29, 2011)

jimmywilson69 said:


> I want to get my ski's sharpened before I head up to Killington next week.  I'm going to get that done at a shop (I'm not ready to do the edges yet).  should I do this before I wax the skis?



Yes.  Waxing is always done last.


----------



## jimmywilson69 (Feb 3, 2011)

I waxed last night for the first time and it went rather well.  I did my sons first, and I defintiely used too much wax.  But I dialed it by the time I got ot the 4th ski.  

I wish I would've done this a long time ago.


----------



## Hawkshot99 (Feb 3, 2011)

jimmywilson69 said:


> I waxed last night for the first time and it went rather well.  I did my sons first, and I defintiely used too much wax.  But I dialed it by the time I got ot the 4th ski.
> 
> I wish I would've done this a long time ago.



To save wax I dont melt it on with the iron.  I crayon on the wax to the base, and then melt that into the base of the ski.  I use a lot less wax this way, so less to have to scrape off and waste.


----------



## hammer (Feb 8, 2011)

If I put the blue wax on the skis a few weeks ago do I need to "change it out" for a different color now or does it matter?  If I should, what is the procedure for doing so?


----------



## RootDKJ (Feb 8, 2011)

hammer said:


> If I put the blue wax on the skis a few weeks ago do I need to "change it out" for a different color now or does it matter?  If I should, what is the procedure for doing so?



Drip new wax over it, iron, scrape, brush, beer.


----------



## drjeff (Feb 8, 2011)

hammer said:


> If I put the blue wax on the skis a few weeks ago do I need to "change it out" for a different color now or does it matter?  If I should, what is the procedure for doing so?



Blue wax (or any other "arctic" temperature wax for that matter) is about the only kind of wax that I really found the need to do a hot scrape when I waxed with temp specific wax, to get it out of the base, especially if there was a decent amount of wax visibly left (a shiny base) and the temps warmed up.  That cold temp wax is relatively speaking a real hard wax and doesn't have nearly as much water repellancy (read as better glide) in warmer temps.

To get it out of there via a hot scrape,  well use either some warmer weather wax, or even some plain old parafin wax,  iron it into the base and then quickly scrape the excess off, re-iron(but don't add any more wax) and then scrape again - repeat this for 3 or 4 cycles until a very small amount of wax is all that can be scraped, and you've just removed/displaced the vast majority of the old wax from your base.  Then feel free to add whatever temp wax you'll need/want for your next time out on the hill


----------

