# Oil Heat



## ALLSKIING (Jan 14, 2015)

For those that have oil heat.......How many gallons per month are you using?


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## Savemeasammy (Jan 14, 2015)

We did really well in Nov/Dec.   I'm not exactly sure when we filled our tank, but it was near the beginning of the heating season, and we didn't have to refill our 250 gallon tank until New Year's Eve.  Right now we are at about 5/8 or less.  January has been a pisser...  Fwiw, our house is a Victorian monstrosity...



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## wa-loaf (Jan 14, 2015)

Filled up end of November (250 gal tank) probably will need to fill up end of Feb or early March, then won't need to fill up again until Fall. I don't use it for hot water so it's just heat and my house is small 1500 sqf.


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## prsboogie (Jan 14, 2015)

1900 sf house and we have had three ~100-110 gallon deliveries since Sept. one of which was today. I loved the ppg today apposed to the Sept one, 2.39 vs 3.98!!


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## Nick (Jan 14, 2015)

It's been a while since i've updated this. my house is ~2500 sq feet I think. 4br colonial.


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## BBMF (Jan 14, 2015)

1500 sq ft ranch with a rear room that leaks heat like a sieve. Seems like the last few years 4 or 5 deliveries a yr somewhere in the 200 gallon range each. It was nice to be surprised with under $500 bill

oil is used is for heat and hot water


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## skifree (Jan 14, 2015)

Around 200gpm during winter


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## Savemeasammy (Jan 15, 2015)

Savemeasammy said:


> We did really well in Nov/Dec.   I'm not exactly sure when we filled our tank, but it was near the beginning of the heating season, and we didn't have to refill our 250 gallon tank until New Year's Eve.  Right now we are at about 5/8 or less.  January has been a pisser...  Fwiw, our house is a Victorian monstrosity...
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



I will also mention that we have steam heat, and we supplement with a wood burning fireplace insert.  We bought 6 cords of wood this year.  


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## St. Bear (Jan 15, 2015)

One of the best things I ever did was take the hot water off the boiler, and install an electric hot water heater. Now we get 3-4 deliveries a year, and shut down the boiler from March-Nov.


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## St. Bear (Jan 15, 2015)

Nick said:


> It's been a while since i've updated this. my house is ~2500 sq feet I think. 4br colonial.



Do you run a whole house sauna?  Just looking at this is making me sweat.


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## drjeff (Jan 15, 2015)

St. Bear said:


> Do you run a whole house sauna?  Just looking at this is making me sweat.




I'm guessing that a bunch of Nick's spike can be attributed to new kid(s) in the house and then also the associated care takers of said kids wanting the house warm and toasty 24//7 instead of the usual turn down the thermostat during the day and while sleeping that most of us do

I just got delivery #2 for my 250 gallon tank since November 1st - 220 gallons of oil this time for my 3300 sq ft house - had many days due to the holidays and my in-laws being over where the main thermostat zone (I have 3 zones in my house) spent the full day at 72 rather than the usual 5 hours it spends at 70 and 19 hours at 60. I know a burned a bunch more oil on those days to keep my in-laws toasty! :lol:


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## Nick (Jan 15, 2015)

Yep, the kids are a huge part. My wife and I used to both work outside the house and we would be gone from 8 to 5 every day. 

Now, she is home with the kids. Also, the kids take 2 naps a day, so I can't let the upstairs cool down either that much. 

We usually keep the heat around 68 - 69 degrees, the upstairs does go down between naptimes and the downstairs temp turns down to 62 at night. 

But yeah us being in the home all the time makes it run constantly.


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## Nick (Jan 15, 2015)

So yeah basically in the coldest parts of the winter it's around 6 gallons per day so 180 gallons a month? That's probably when the temps are around 10 - 20 degrees


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## SkiFanE (Jan 15, 2015)

We have 1700 sq. foot colonial, old boiler, shitty windows, oil hot water.  We'd go through about 150-200 gals/month in dead of winter previous years (and we NEVER have thermostat above 68, usually at 62 and we go away every weekend and set it at 58 or so).  This fall we got a woodstove   Last delivery was 12/15, just checked a few days ago and we were only down 1/3   So for 250 gals I'm guessing it was 75 gals or so over the month.        Of course...when oil is cheap haha...last winter we got reamed big time (hence wood stove).  Ski house is heated with oil, but mostly with woodstove when we are there.  WE got through about 500 gals/winter (1400ft ranch).  Ski house we got wood delivered, main house we are chopping own wood from our woodsy acre...THAT is a nice little core workout.


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## SkiFanE (Jan 15, 2015)

Nick said:


> Yep, the kids are a huge part. My wife and I used to both work outside the house and we would be gone from 8 to 5 every day.
> 
> Now, she is home with the kids. Also, the kids take 2 naps a day, so I can't let the upstairs cool down either that much.
> 
> ...




Keep the heat down for kid's naps.  Honestly...chillier house is a healthier house, as long as they have sleepers on and a blanket, trust me..they'll be fine.  I never put heat above 62 upstairs - I always like sleeping in chiller house.  If it's warmer, I get all stuffed up.


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## wa-loaf (Jan 15, 2015)

Those of you in Mass with leaky houses really should give MassSave a call http://www.masssave.com/. They come in and do a free energy audit, put in cfls everywhere for no cost, and then give you huge discounts on insulation, windows, etc ...


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## Nick (Jan 15, 2015)

I do also, we used to put it to ~66 or 65 at night. My daughter sleeps with a sleep sack (she just turned 1) but my son is 2 1/2 and still doesn't want a blank, and I don't think his PJ's alone are enough to keep him warm. I used to put a small space heater in his room just to accomodate him. also my upstairs doesn't really heat that evenly. Our master bedroom has a return in it where the thermostat is but the other bedrooms vent under the door to the return in the hallway. Sometimes I walk into her room and it's hot and other times it's cold even though it's the same in our bedroom. 

I might need to get an HVAC guy to come balance the entire thing. I did do the masssaves thing 2 years ago and they weather sealed and did the door blower test and all that good stuff.


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## SkiFanE (Jan 15, 2015)

wa-loaf said:


> Those of you in Mass with leaky houses really should give MassSave a call http://www.masssave.com/. They come in and do a free energy audit, put in cfls everywhere for no cost, and then give you huge discounts on insulation, windows, etc ...



Last year we had a $1k boiler repair.  We considered getting a new one.  But our 1700 sq ft house is the smallest in our neighborhood, McMansions of 4-6k sq feet surround us.  We have a beautiful acre of land. So basically...we have a tear-down quality home - or one that would be blown out to double in size...and we won't be in it for more than 8-10 years, we're selling out as soon as kids are done with public school.  So...amortization wasn't there, and the next buyer (probably a developer...just got mail asking if we would sell to a builder) will not care about new boiler/windows.  Maybe we're being shortsighted, but we just didn't want to get into debt for new windows/boiler when it wouldn't save us $ in the long run.  Although we didn't do en exhaustive research/study - but it was way more $ than we wanted to spend.

And with oil costs so much less...longer time make our $ back (correct?).


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## Not Sure (Jan 15, 2015)

Make sure you get your Boiler/Furnace serviced every year! It's expensive but a little layer of carbon inside can reduce heat transmission drastically, Lots of old boilers can waste alot of fuel, I've seen some stack temps of 700 deg.
Shutting of your boiler in summer can save money but can do some damage, moisture buildup can rust steel boilers and deteriorate masonary chimneys, a Stainless flue liner can prevent that issue.
Moisture can get into oil tanks through leaking fill caps , put a coffee can over fuill line outside.


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## wa-loaf (Jan 15, 2015)

SkiFanE said:


> Last year we had a $1k boiler repair.  We considered getting a new one.  But our 1700 sq ft house is the smallest in our neighborhood, McMansions of 4-6k sq feet surround us.  We have a beautiful acre of land. So basically...we have a tear-down quality home - or one that would be blown out to double in size...and we won't be in it for more than 8-10 years, we're selling out as soon as kids are done with public school.  So...amortization wasn't there, and the next buyer (probably a developer...just got mail asking if we would sell to a builder) will not care about new boiler/windows.  Maybe we're being shortsighted, but we just didn't want to get into debt for new windows/boiler when it wouldn't save us $ in the long run.  Although we didn't do en exhaustive research/study - but it was way more $ than we wanted to spend.
> 
> And with oil costs so much less...longer time make our $ back (correct?).



A new boiler doesn't seem like something you need, but I think I paid less than $700 to have the attic insulated (18" blow-in insulation). I'm sure that would save you some dough over 8-10 years. I did it right when I moved into my place so I'm not sure what the previous owner was burning, but I only go through 2 tanks of Oil a year. New storm windows don't cost that much either. There's a lot of small things you can do that will have a pretty big impact.


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## SkiFanE (Jan 15, 2015)

wa-loaf said:


> A new boiler doesn't seem like something you need, but I think I paid less than $700 to have the attic insulated (18" blow-in insulation). I'm sure that would save you some dough over 8-10 years. I did it right when I moved into my place so I'm not sure what the previous owner was burning, but I only go through 2 tanks of Oil a year. New storm windows don't cost that much either. There's a lot of small things you can do that will have a pretty big impact.



We are well insulated in the attic (and even an insulated door over the fold down stairs).  The boiler is 45 years old, I think it would help to get a new one.  We have storm windows - but they are not insulated double-pane windows you get nowadays.  The previous owner seemed to do as much as he could.  House was built in 1969 and pretty much original with some added 'features'.  So really, it seems the expensive things are what is left to do.  But yeah..wouldn't hurt to get an assessment, you never know.


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## Not Sure (Jan 15, 2015)

"45 yr old boiler" high stack temp, most likely you wood benefit with one of these
http://www.magicheatreclaimer.com/magic-heat-reclaimers/
As long as there is enough space between flue and boiler outlet.


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## xwhaler (Jan 16, 2015)

I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.

Not sure you guys are familiar with this site but may be helpful to price shop.
http://www.newenglandoil.com/

I monitor this site whenever I need to buy...never buy more than 100 gals at a time because I like the flexibility of using different companies if price goes down. Not all providers will deliver 100 gals...some have a 150 gal min so I avoid them.
Not all companies of course are on that site but the ones that want to be cost competitive are I've found. The other guys in my area that don't post daily prices on NEO or FB/website I've found are just higher.

Oil is oil...I see no reason to pay a higher price/gal than I have to. I monitor the tank level so outside of showing up, filling my tank, and taking my check on delivery there is no other value that they provide that would require me paying more.

Some folks are on pre-buy or auto delivery programs. I would never do that...you lose flexibility if prices fall and you are locked in to one company.
Few yrs ago a buddy got burned by a local company going out of business...he had given them $2500 up front on a pre-buy plan he never got back.


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## SkiFanE (Jan 16, 2015)

xwhaler said:


> I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
> We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
> Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
> Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.
> ...



Home owners for 21 years.  Back at the beginning oil was not so volatile, basically it never seemed to fall in price during the winter, but go up.  So we would do budget and capped plans, and it always worked well.  Then probably 8-10 years ago things seemed to change, and the capped prices weren't that great... and when oil skyrocketed...it it could fall too - so more chance your agreed price from the previous May would be higher than market price when delivered.   So that's when we stopped doing plans.  

BUT...the extra cost with a reliable supplier can be worth it.  In MA we have a cheap guy that delivers on COD, calls us to check every month - found him on that site you linked.  But..when our oil burner had problems last winter, right before Xmas and our vacation - we needed someone quick to come fix it.  Well...he just recommends people, doesn't do repair.  So we had to find someone to come Xmas Eve...I'm sure we got reamed on charges lol.  In ME we have a company and they have a key to our house, and we need that.  I think we get reamed on oil price...but we need the reliability and someone who can enter house when we're not there.  So there is a good reason to go with the full service companies in certain cases.


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## xwhaler (Jan 16, 2015)

Agree that with a 2nd home far away it makes total sense to have a company that does both delivery and repair and has access to the house.


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## Not Sure (Jan 16, 2015)

Air leakage is the biggest problem, even in newer homes. When Plumbing and electric are run during construction  holes are drilled larger than necessary, Codes today require fire stoping with foam or other "rotten cotton".
I've been on some fire damaged jobs and after drywall has been removed, it's amazing to see smoke trails finding there way through small areas.
Air leaking out through theses areas 24/7 draws exterior air in.
A good tool to find air leakage is a cheap infrared thermometer.
Up in your attic look for dis colored insulation , it acts like an air filter and picks up dirt
Spray foam works well to seal up plumbing and electric penetrations.


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## wa-loaf (Jan 16, 2015)

xwhaler said:


> I use approx 100 gals/month in my 1700 sq ft Cape that is well insulated (newer home, Andersen windows etc)
> We used to keep the heat much lower...turn up to 60 while at home and just wear swetshirts in house...turn down to 50 while sleeping.
> Never had a problem with that approach until last yr when I had pipes freeze 2x on me..one resulting in a $400 plumbing bill to un freeze them. Luckily no damage.
> Now with that in the back of my mind and my son running around we keep it at 60 at night or during day when we are at work, 68/70 while in house.
> ...



You might want to check out https://www.smartclickenergy.com/ 

I use Massenergy.org and have found it to be pretty good. I'm will call so only fill up when I'm ready.


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## xwhaler (Jan 16, 2015)

wa-loaf said:


> You might want to check out https://www.smartclickenergy.com/
> 
> I use Massenergy.org and have found it to be pretty good. I'm will call so only fill up when I'm ready.


I've looked at those broker type outfits before but haven't found one that is in my area. Plugged my zip into that site and no dice.


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## wa-loaf (Jan 16, 2015)

xwhaler said:


> I've looked at those broker type outfits before but haven't found one that is in my area. Plugged my zip into that site and no dice.



Might be a MA only thing. Just realized you are in NH.


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## from_the_NEK (Jan 16, 2015)

About 190gal/month supplemented with 1 cord/month of wood during the dead of winter to heat my only 7 year old 2,500 (3,500 including unfinished basement) Cape. The basement is what is killing me for the oil usage. There is radiant heat in the concrete floor but 3 of the four walls are uninsulated concrete with a 0 R value. I keep the thermostat at 60 down there but that cold air makes the main level's floor cold (radiant heat there too). 
The wood stove is on the main level and can do a pretty good job keeping the two primary floors warm by itself until the temp drops below 5 degrees. If I let the woodstove get too low, the radiant heat in the floor of the main level kicks in but it the system has to start at the 60 degree temp of the basement. So the furnace runs like crazy just trying to get it back up to temp.
I REALLY need to get the basement walls insulated. I think I could cut my oil use in half.


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## Savemeasammy (Jan 16, 2015)

from_the_NEK said:


> About 190gal/month supplemented with 1 cord/month of wood during the dead of winter to heat my only 7 year old 2,500 (3,500 including unfinished basement) Cape. The basement is what is killing me for the oil usage. There is radiant heat in the concrete floor but 3 of the four walls are uninsulated concrete with a 0 R value. I keep the thermostat at 60 down there but that cold air makes the main level's floor cold (radiant heat there too).
> The wood stove is on the main level and can do a pretty good job keeping the two primary floors warm by itself until the temp drops below 5 degrees. If I let the woodstove get too low, the radiant heat in the floor of the main level kicks in but it the system has to start at the 60 degree temp of the basement. So the furnace runs like crazy just trying to get it back up to temp.
> I REALLY need to get the basement walls insulated. I think I could cut my oil use in half.



Did your builder adequately insulate UNDER your basement slab?  That could contribute to your problem...  If not, you are losing heat to the ground via conduction. 




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## from_the_NEK (Jan 16, 2015)

Savemeasammy said:


> Did your builder adequately insulate UNDER your basement slab?  That could contribute to your problem...  If not, you are losing heat to the ground via conduction.



There is 2.5" foam board insulation under the slab.


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## Not Sure (Jan 16, 2015)

from_the_NEK said:


> There is 2.5" foam board insulation under the slab.



Should be some around the perimeter too.


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## steamboat1 (Jan 17, 2015)

I average about 500 gal. a year. On auto delivery & have a service contract to have boiler cleaned every year plus any repairs that need to be done. Contract is about $200 if I recall correctly & covers everything. A few years ago my auto water feed got stuck open on Thanksgiving morning. Called the company at 7:30am & the repairman was here at 8:00am. Can't beat that kind of service, especially on a holiday. Oil is for heat only, my hot water is natural gas. Was thinking of converting everything to natural gas but I don't think I'll save much if anything. My thermostat is on a timer. From 6am to 8am it's set at 66. From 8am to 3:30pm it's set at 63. From 3:30pm to 11pm it's back to 66. From 11pm to 6am it's back to 63.


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## Not Sure (Jan 18, 2015)

steamboat1 said:


> I average about 500 gal. a year. On auto delivery & have a service contract to have boiler cleaned every year plus any repairs that need to be done. Contract is about $200 if I recall correctly & covers everything. A few years ago my auto water feed got stuck open on Thanksgiving morning. Called the company at 7:30am & the repairman was here at 8:00am. Can't beat that kind of service, especially on a holiday. Oil is for heat only, my hot water is natural gas. Was thinking of converting everything to natural gas but I don't think I'll save much if anything. My thermostat is on a timer. From 6am to 8am it's set at 66. From 8am to 3:30pm it's set at 63. From 3:30pm to 11pm it's back to 66. From 11pm to 6am it's back to 63.



Natural gas conversion will pay for itself very quickly 
I do a lot , you can remove the burner and install a new one and keep your old boiler,
Just have to install a chimney liner
Or replace the whole unit and go with condensing equipment and not have to use your old chimney .


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## prsboogie (Jan 18, 2015)

I would love natural gas but its not available here. Always had it growing up but where I bought its only in half the town.


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## Geoff (Jan 20, 2015)

Siliconebobsquarepants said:


> Natural gas conversion will pay for itself very quickly



Not this year 

My natural gas bill went up as did my electric bill.  The gas pipeline supply problem is giving eastern New England consumers the hard screwing.   I haven't run the numbers but I'll bet oil is cheaper than natural gas this year if you're in the Massachusetts NStar footprint.   I imagine the same is true for Vermont propane vs oil this year even though I get a really good sub-$2.00/gallon propane rate at my condo.


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## Glenn (Jan 20, 2015)

Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.


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## steamboat1 (Jan 20, 2015)

Glenn said:


> Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.


mid 70's
:blink:


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## andrec10 (Jan 20, 2015)

Glenn said:


> Under 100 gallons. We bought a pellet stove. It'll take a few years to see the savings. But the house is nice and warm. It would cost a fortune in oil to keep the house in the mid 70's.



Mid 70's! Thats not even healthy in the winter! Too friggen warm!


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## Glenn (Jan 21, 2015)

I should clarify...raised ranch, stove is on the lower level. That room is mid 70s...main level is in the mid 60's...end rooms low 60's.


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## darent (Jan 28, 2015)

wa-loaf said:


> Those of you in Mass with leaky houses really should give MassSave a call http://www.masssave.com/. They come in and do a free energy audit, put in cfls everywhere for no cost, and then give you huge discounts on insulation, windows, etc ...


be careful with the huge discount for insulation, we had our first floor insulated, open joist in basement for a great price. only thing was they didn't use encapsulated fiberglass batts, now I have a basement with exposed fiberglass insulation that I now have to cover up.


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## Glenn (Jan 29, 2015)

Check those discount prices first. My brother inlaw had someone estimate insulating his attic for $1,200. He had an energy audit done. They said it's normally $2,400 to insulate an attic their size, but they'll do it for $1,200. Know your prices ahead of time. I have a feeling these audits are a way for these contractors to get a foot in the door.


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## Abominable (Feb 2, 2015)

New (to me) old house, 1800 sq ft, no one home all day, hats and sweaters when we are, oil with steam heat and baseboard radiator in one zone (small addition).  Supplemented with a little portable electric heater - easier to turn on for two hours at night when we're in the TV room (addition).  Oil also providing hot water.

So far about / slightly less than 100 gals per month.  Definitely need to do some work on insulation, sealing up the basement, etc.  But happily surprised as the PO spent more than 4K (two older folks, not working, home all day, oil $1 pg costlier) and I'd budgeted for that.  So if I can get through the winter for 1K - 1.5K I'll take it.

Going woodstove shopping in spring.


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## wa-loaf (Feb 3, 2015)

Dug out a path for my oilman!



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