# Problem with Snow sticking to snowshoes



## patty (Dec 16, 2003)

I just found this forum and think I'll have a lot of fun here since I'm an avid hiker and snowshoer. My problem is that I have wooden snowshoes with rawhide lacings and today the temps were warm and the snow kept sticking to the lacings under my foot, actually making a snowball. Can anyone give me advice on how to prevent this?  Usually it's so cold here in central NY that I don't have that problem.  Also I'm considering buying a pair of the new aluminum snowshoes. Can anyone give me advice on what to look for in these and will I like them as well as my old, well almost ancient, wooden ones that I've had since I was a teen?


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## Greg (Dec 16, 2003)

Welcome to the boards, Patty. I'm new to snowshoeing myself, but I'm sure there are others here that can provide some advice. For what it's worth, *HERE* are my snowshoes (the H30 model, I think).


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## MtnMagic (Dec 16, 2003)

Hi there Patty,
Welcome to the boards!

I snowshoe almost every day as I live year round in the Whites. I don't know anything about wooden/rawhide 'shoes except they are the most expensive and least effective. Several years ago I purchased aluminium framed 'shoes. It was from a newer mfg named *Yukon Charlie*. Prices were unbelievable, 25" 'shoes for under $60, 30 'shoes for under $75.

Brought them to my friends who are the caretakers at two AMC huts to analyze them, to pick 'em apart. Conclusion from all: superb in every way.
*Yukon Charlie* were first advertised in _AMC Outdoors_ last year. 
They are found at the above lowest prices at your local Northern NE Wal*Mart.

IMO: performance, snap bindings, quality, etc. exceed all other mfgrs and are half the price, guaranteed unconditionally for 2 full years. What mfg can top this? None!
____________________
I live in snow country all winter,
and 'shoe all winter!


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## Max (Dec 17, 2003)

Hey Patty, welcome to the board!      :beer: 

You will find the aluminum models to be a lot more tolerant of that situation...the snow won't stick nearly as much, even in the warmer conditions.  Those rawhide models are notorious for that, especially if you happen to get the lacing wet on a brook crossing!  I have seen various solutions, like applying non stick coatings.  I had a hiking buddy that used to use PAM cooking spray on his...not too effective though!  He also tried rubbing generous amounts of candle wax over the frame and lacing.

Personally, I'd bite the bullet and go for the aluminum shoes...they are lots lighter, and have better crampons than the after-market ones that can be attached to the wooden models.  Depending on your body weight (I would NEVER be so indiscreet to ask what it was  :wink: ) you may find that you can get by with a shoe that has a load capacity that's less than what you require.  I weigh 180, (surely 200 + once I add clothes and pack) and I feel the weight recommendations can be cheated on the low side.  My shoes were recommended for weights up to about 170 lbs and I've never had a problem with them.  I'd rather use a shorter, lighter model and have the benefit of maneuverability over increased flotation in deep powder.  Your mileage may vary here, but make a judgment based on the terrain and snow depths and consistency and don't get a snowshoe that's too long for you.

Max


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## patty (Dec 17, 2003)

*Thanks for the welcome!*

Thanks for your quick replies and advice. I've checked out the Yukon Charlie snowshoes and have one question. Do the bindings have to be unbuckled to get them on and off or is it a one hand simple release snap. Usually by the time we get back from snowshoeing I'm ready to get them off quick and get warm! I've been snowshoeing on and off for about 40 years, yes I know I'm not young anymore!,  but have really become serious about it the last 2 years. I snowshoe for a couple hours a day probably 3-4 times a week. We're dairy farmers in central NY so I have lots of hills, many open fields, but also woods to snowshoe in so I have every kind of condition you can imagine. And yes, I also have to cross brooks and beaver ponds and sometimes get wet!  But mainly it's very deep powder here.  Are there any more suggestions you can give me, ie brands to stay away from, things to look for? My sister has red feather aluminums and when we snowshoed together she went much deeper in the snow than I did. Also her bindings were a hard plastic, hard to work with.  So send all advice to me!


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## jlangdale (Dec 17, 2003)

Yea I was told aluminum good for not sticking snow.  But I was looking for shoes that would work with my snowboard boots, which is why I got Tubbs Altitude 30s.

If you think about it, the raw-hide is natrual and has tons of creases for snow to meld into and stick especailly when froozen.  Even still, I read that depending on the conditions snow will build up regardless and it's a good idea to tap off snow every so often.

I'm loving my snoeshoes, the best part is just walking around my house!


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## Max (Dec 17, 2003)

OK good stuff to know Patty.  Sounds like you are in more open fields than woods, so you might want to go for the longer shoes with more flotation then.  And I agree on the bindings...one of the first things I look for is an easy attach and release mechanism.  I've had good luck with the Tubbs Altitude models that JLangdale mentioned.  I can unfasten the bindings with gloves on even after a full day of snowshoeing.  And they seem easily adaptable to any size boot.

Don't worry about your age...there are plenty of us "old geezers" here!   :wink:


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## MtnMagic (Dec 17, 2003)

All 4 sizes of *Yukon Charlie *'shoes use the quick release "snap". I too, have stepped in water using these and having it freeze, with no problem. The snap bindings, the solid flat bottom with cleats, and the pivot always works great. 

I would stay away from the plastic type, judging by the trail talk I've engaged with others over the years. You can pay designer prices for the name (Atlas, MSR, Tubbs) brands, or get *Yukon Charlie *the one using the best design at 1/3 the price. They work perfectly in highest mtns in the Whites. Oh, and for just $9.95 you can purchase the rugged carrying bag that stores the 'shoes and gives my Grivel G-10 crampons the perfect home.
____________________
I saved over $100!


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## Greg (Dec 17, 2003)

patty - when you're ready to buy, check out our Gear Store:

http://gear.alpinezone.com/snowshoe.htm (click on "Snowshoes")

The prices are pretty competitive. Thanks!


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## pedxing (Dec 17, 2003)

From looking at the Yukon Charlies, they lack some of the features that the "high end" snowshoes have - its not just a question of paying for image.   Another alternative to consider are the MSR line of snowshoes - they have a fairly unique design with tails that can be added on when carrying more weight or traveling on powder.

Personally, I am an Atlas fan - but so many of the snowshoes out there are so well made that people who shop for something that suits them end up loving whatever brand it is that they settle on.

You can get some ice buildup even with aluminum snowshoes - especially once they get beat up and have a scratched surface for ice and snow to hang on to.  Someone recommended auto wax as a solution - and it seems to help.


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## MtnMagic (Dec 17, 2003)

I'm looking at the Atlas Series in the REI catalog. On mine, the instant snap is around the three straps that support your feet perfectly, two more than Atlas hasn't. Mine don't have toe cleats, they do have dual crampons in the mid cleats, making running easier. In the large pix in the catalog Atlas doesn't have those instant snap bindings which are so fast to put on/remove. 

It's 20 degrees here and its been raining since 9 am.
____________________
Just my .02


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## pedxing (Dec 17, 2003)

I should have added that many of the MSR are significantly less expense than the comparable Tubbs and Atlas.

Never having held a Yukon snowshoe in my hand, let alone used one, I will have to remain curious and ignorant for now.  I couldn't even find a review of the Yukons.  The real point is getting the tool that will do what you want it to do. 

I'd suggest going to a store where you can check some shoes out, and maybe even renting a pair before buying.  If you've got friends who own some, you could borrow a few before buying anything.


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## patty (Dec 17, 2003)

*Small world*

Max, You won't believe this but I lived in Baldwinville Mass for 25 years!  We had a dairy farm on South Main Street, just north of the high school.  It sure is a small world.


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## Mike P. (Dec 17, 2003)

If you are near an EMS, you could rent some to see how you like them first.  Not too many differences between a Redfeather, Tubbs or Atlas as far as how they work.  You may find some differences in bindsing though.

For just hills, woods, fields etc., you can probably get by with Recreational snowshoes instead of Mountaineering types.  (Tubbs & Atlas use name similar to this to differentiate their approx. $170 snowshoes from their $260 snowshoes.  The MSR's are around $110 depending on sales.

Your large wooden shoes do probably give more float than most of teh new shoes.  getting the 36" would be good if you are usually on unbroken terrain.  The extra amount you sink should be offset by the fact that the newer shoes are narrower allowing you to walk more normally & they are likely lighter. (even witout the sticking snow)

One big difference, New snowshoes just don't add any ambiance when they are hung up in a cabin next to a fireplace & it will be decades before anyone pays big $$$ for them as antiques.


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## Max (Dec 18, 2003)

*Re: Small world*



			
				patty said:
			
		

> Max, You won't believe this but I lived in Baldwinville Mass for 25 years!  We had a dairy farm on South Main Street, just north of the high school.  It sure is a small world.



Wow, it sure is!      I've been here for 10, moving to Templeton from Leominster.  If you haven't been here in a while, there's been some changes...lot of new housing going up on that road near the school!  I'm down the Hubbardston Rd. area, not far from the center of town.


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## patty (Dec 18, 2003)

*Max*

Max,  This summer I was at my very best friend's house, the Bronsons, who also live on Hubbardston Rd. They took me around to look at all the new houses and it sure made me glad I'm out here on my own 510 acres instead of crowded in there!


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## RJ (Dec 22, 2003)

I just recently retrofitted my wooden snowshoes with new bindings and cleats. I’ve only gone on one hike so far, but my wooden shoes broke trail far better than my friend’s aluminum shoes. The only drawback was the maneuverability or lack there of. I’m planning to hike to Gray Knob this Saturday, and haven’t decided whether or not to take my wooden shoes or borrow a friend’s aluminum ones. If you are interested in retrofitting your wooden shoes, here is a web page that supplies new bindings.

http://www.creatcompsol.com/havlick/Bindings.html


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## Mike P. (Dec 22, 2003)

RJ

The problem I see with the wooden ones on a well traveled route like up to gray Knob is that the trail should be well broken out by narrower shoes,  I find that the biggest pain in using my large alumium snowshoes as most people use the mid-size.  The large ones are an inch wide per shoe.

It's a lot easier staying in the groove than widening it a few inches.


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## RJ (Dec 22, 2003)

Point well taken, Mike. I do hope, however, that the trail will be so well broken out that I will wear my crampons up to Gray Knob and only switch to the shoes when I head to the ridge. I will more than likely take my friend's aluminum shoes and leave the wooden shoes for a flater trail.


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## twigeater (Jan 2, 2004)

Having snowshoed "forever" on wooden shoes with rawhide bindings, changing over to aluminum shoes was a challenge.  I tried Tubbs and  Atlas before settling on Yukon Charlies. Just what works for me. And I still take my old wooden shoes out every now and again.


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## cptchris (Jan 10, 2004)

*modern snow shoes*

forget about yukon charlie's at wall mart all sold out. I bought a pair of colemans at olympia sport ,25" for $75 ,best buy around, stainless steal built in crampons are a plus !!


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