# Ski Tuning and Waxing



## dlague (Sep 4, 2013)

Winter is getting ever closer - woo hoo!  With that in mind it is time to start getting the gear ready right? Maybe I am jumping the gun but need to get things done before they sneak up!

Last season, we started buying some basic tools for waxing our skis on the fly so we didn't have to drop them off.  We bought waxes for different temps/conditions, scrappers, brushes, basic edge sharpeners, etc.  This worked out quite well and we got good results.  We are looking into stepping it up this year and making more of a work shop out of it!

Do any of you have any experience doing this?  If so, what are some tools that you would recommend?  ie. edge sharpeners, roto brushes, base grinders, vices, etc.

Also do any of you have any best practices or links to good videos that talk about it?

Looking forward to the input!


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## dlague (Sep 4, 2013)

I just realized this should have been in the Gear Fourm!  Sorry.  Nick can this be moved over there?


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## Nick (Sep 4, 2013)

Yes Sir


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## dlague (Sep 4, 2013)

Thanks sir!  Was just about to message you!


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## tree_skier (Sep 4, 2013)

Roto brushes are great if racing not really necessary otherwise.

Basic necessities

A Good vice
Edge guide, 2 degrees would do it, I use 3 for SL, GS and 2 for SG, DH and my mid fats
Base Guide, 1 degree, again i use 1/2 for SL, GS and SG and 1 for DH and mid fats
1 inch spring clamp, to hold files to guides
a supply of files.  I like the 10 inch, use it for both side and base also don't need to buy the expensive ones I buy them buy the dozen from Artech
Waxing iron
Wax, for non racing purposes a good all temperature non floro is all that is needed, I can discuse the floro, non-floro issues if you would like
plastic scrapers, invest in 2 a year or a scraper sharpener.  nothing beats a sharp scraper
base tape.  it is great for keeping those pesky filings out of your bases.
a good stone, I don't use a diamond stone, I know sacrilidge but have a collection of various grits of cutting and polishing stones and a rough stone for bigger damage.  The stones clean easy and last a long time my current set is about 8 years old and still going strong.

what to get next
Brushes.  Don't bother with hand brushes go straight to the roto brush with brass and horsehair being to to most important.  The biggest benefit of brushing is cleaning the bases before waxing.  Yes it does make a pretty finish post wax but after a run or two there is no difference.
Then if you want to get into it base repair stuff.
and lastly if you really want to spend money an edge grinder.


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## Abubob (Sep 4, 2013)

Start by making your own bench!

http://www.epicski.com/t/107871/my-homemade-tuning-stand-and-ski-vise

or just a 10 or 12 inch mill bastard file. Lean the ski on something sturdy - base up. Hold the file with the pointy end at 2 o'clock, square end at 8. Press against the ski base near the tip and pull toward the tail in one motion. After you've sliced your hand open try not to bleed on your new Nike's. If you don't need stitches then bring your skis to the local ski shop and get a full tune for $50.

I go through this every year.


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## drjeff (Sep 4, 2013)

In all seriousness look online at places like Reliable Racing Supply or Tognar and get yourself a REAL ski wax iron - you can usually pick up the base model from Swix or Toko for $50 or less on sale.

A true ski wax iron makes a HUGE difference since 1st off there aren't any holes in the base, secondly the temp gauge coincides with suggested use temps on the packs of wax instead of types of fabrics (and too hot a temp will degrade the qualities of the wax and its glide!) and lastly the thicker heat plate of a true ski wax iron holds the temp better and makes it easier and quicker to wax the pair(s) of skis you're working on.

I'm also a big, decade plus fan of the Ski Visions Base Planer and their Ski Sharp edge sharpener. Those 2 products combined will QUICKLY (less than 2 minutes per ski) get you a consistently flat base and consistent base and side edge bevels with a few passes and with the edge sharpener you can get different inserts depending on if you need some heavy work (mill bastard file insert) some "average" work (diamond stone insert) or just some polishing (gummi stone insert).  And all but the highest of level of racers (the kind of folks who can feel the difference between a 2* side bevel and a 2.5* side bevel  )will be VERY happy with the results.

I can go from start to fully tuned and waxed in less than 10 minutes (including a few swigs of the mandatory "tuning beer! :beer: ) in less than 10 minutes per pair with the tools I've mentioned!

As for base damage repair, unless you're an elite level racer OR can see core material, don't worry about it, it more than likely won't have any effect on your ski's performance. If you can see the core, best, most reliable bet is to take it to your reputable ski shop of choice and have them base weld and stone grind it.  Getting a core shot to predictably stick and hold up over time takes a bunch of skill and a bunch of $$ equipment to do it right - much better to let "the pros" handle major stuff like that

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AlpineZone mobile app


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## thetrailboss (Sep 4, 2013)

dlague said:


> Winter is getting ever closer - woo hoo!  With that in mind it is time to start getting the gear ready right? Maybe I am jumping the gun but need to get things done before they sneak up!
> 
> Last season, we started buying some basic tools for waxing our skis on the fly so we didn't have to drop them off.  We bought waxes for different temps/conditions, scrappers, brushes, basic edge sharpeners, etc.  This worked out quite well and we got good results.  We are looking into stepping it up this year and making more of a work shop out of it!
> 
> ...



Tuning is a lot of fun and is pretty easy to do.  The tools are a bit pricey, but they are worth the investment.  I personally LOVE skiing on freshly tuned boards...once you do it you won't go back.  

The two biggest things I've found you need are a good vice and a good iron.  You can use an old clothes iron, but the temperature can vary and the holes in the bottom can be a PITA.  

Next I'd say a good edger tool and a good set of brushes--one mixed and one nylon or horsehair.  

Wax: I generally use a warm weather and a cold weather.  I keep it simple.  I also do have a base wax for new skis.  

In terms of resources, you can find some good stuff on Google from Swix and others.  

Here are some good tools I use:

Iron...an AWESOME one:  http://www.tognar.com/toko-digital-wax-iron/  She is a beast!  I ordered mine from a nice shop in Montana, Nordic Ski Source, but it looks like they are out of business.   

My vice is no longer made by Swix, but the one I have is designed so that it is like a ski boot that fits in your binding and it holds the ski for waxing and sharpening.  It is awesome.  A typical vice will be about $100-150.  You can improvise with a regular shop binding, but once you get a nice ski vice you won't go back.  Here is a basic binding for skis under 100 mm:  http://www.skicenter.com/Swix-World...7&zmap=13220&gclid=CKObhLqes7kCFZF7QgodoU0Ajg

For general wax and equipment, these guys are great:  http://www.artechski.com/#gsc.tab=0

Mixed bronze brush:  http://www.rei.com/product/793002/swix-medium-bronze-brush

Nylon brush:  http://www.rei.com/product/793001/swix-nylon-brush

Edger....basic one:  http://www.rei.com/product/842609/swix-6-way-tuner

And plenty of scrapers!


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## snowmonster (Sep 5, 2013)

I was debating whether to sell my tuning set-up (bench, vises, iron, boxes of wax, side and base guides, diamond stones, a variety of stones, sandpaper, scrapers, Ptex, candles, 3 kinds of brushes and more). I decided against it in the hope that I will be back here someday to use it. I started putting together a basic set up with just an iron, wax and scrapers in 2007 and have not sent any of my skis to a shop since then. 

My after ski day routine is to work on the edges (deburring stone and diamond stone) then I give the skis a wax after three days. I have a whole box of waxes and change waxes according tot he temps. I also work on the structure of the skis when snow conditions change.    

It's a fun thing to do during the week when you're waiting to ski on the weekends. Nothing like skiing on a freshly tuned and waxed pair of skis!

I got all my equipment from Artechski.com. Good prices and variety of equipment. The owner, George, is very helpful. He'll answer any question you have.


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## El Bishop (Sep 8, 2013)

Is this a good starter set or will everything have to be replaced for better quality stuff almost immediately? http://www.sierratradingpost.com/swix-ultimate-alpine-ski-tuning-kit-with-table~p~3807v/

Looks like it might be a good deal for the table alone.


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## snowmonster (Sep 9, 2013)

^ Looks like a good price to get you the bench, vise and iron. I find it odd that it comes with rub on wax because you don't need an iron for that at all. This set up will get you in the ground floor but you'll probably need to buy some good iron on waxes immediately to start playing with this set up. A good bar of universal CH wax will fill this need. As for the other tools, that scraper, side edge kit and brush will definitely come in handy.Regarding the side edge kit, this will only work if your skis have been beveled to a 2 degree side edge. If not, you may want to have your local ski shop a visit to get the edge bevel set then you can just maintain that angle. If you're confident in your own abilities, cut away. Personally, I limit filing my edges to once a season to set the edge then just maintain with a diamond stone but that's getting a little too technical for now. 

If you decide to get a little more technical, you can add a brass and horsehair brush, a diamond stone and a base edge tool but save your money first and see how your tuning skills pan out. As for the rub on wax, just throw that in your ski backpack for on the hill touch ups like when your skis get grabby in spring snow. 

All in all, it's a pretty good starter kit. If you bought that vise, bench and iron separately, you're already looking at $200. Welcome to the wonderful world of ski tuning. It's addictive.


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## dlague (Sep 9, 2013)

I am in the process of getting stuff and that is a pretty good deal!  I built my own bench and made custom vises and just the rest of the other stuff cost more than that!  I am getting root brushes though and waxes for all temps - that alone adds up!  Much of the stuff I found was from this thread and some videos.


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## El Bishop (Nov 5, 2013)

Decided to take it easy at first and just do some maintenance work rather than full-fledged tuning until I know better what I am doing.  I picked up a base edge guide and a 400 grit diamond stone from Artech.  before I start filing away, how do I ensure that I got the right degree file guide?  I picked up a 2 degree guide after reading somewhere that it seemed to be most commonly used.  Does that sound right or might I need somethign else depending on my skis?  Right now I have Atomic Nomad Smokes.

Thanks


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## dlague (Nov 5, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> Decided to take it easy at first and just do some maintenance work rather than full-fledged tuning until I know better what I am doing.  I picked up a base edge guide and a 400 grit diamond stone from Artech.  before I start filing away, how do I ensure that I got the right degree file guide?  I picked up a 2 degree guide after reading somewhere that it seemed to be most commonly used.  Does that sound right or might I need somethign else depending on my skis?  Right now I have Atomic Nomad Smokes.
> 
> Thanks



There are many good videos on Youtube that talk about this.  In fact I just bought just about everything I need for tuning our skis and I used youtube to plan my bench which I built!  Pictures to follow!


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## El Bishop (Nov 5, 2013)

I've watched a good few Youtube videos but didn't find something that gets as specific as what degree base edge guide to use.  Any chance you can point me to one in particular?


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## andrec10 (Nov 5, 2013)

You want to be careful with the base edge. You mostly want to work off the side. Ask me how I know!


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## El Bishop (Nov 5, 2013)

Whoops -- right you are -- I meant the side edge.  And I'll bite: how do you know?


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## andrec10 (Nov 5, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> Whoops -- right you are -- I meant the side edge.  And I'll bite: how do you know?



Years ago when my son started racing, I did the bottom edge with a base bevel, way too grabby after that. Racers usually only work on the side edge, and when the bottoms go, its time for a tune.


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## wa-loaf (Nov 5, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> I've watched a good few Youtube videos but didn't find something that gets as specific as what degree base edge guide to use.  Any chance you can point me to one in particular?



Check out these guys: http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html

They have a ton of tuning tips on their site.


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## Abubob (Nov 6, 2013)

wa-loaf said:


> Check out these guys: http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html
> 
> They have a ton of tuning tips on their site.



Great site! I'm gettin' one o these: http://www.tognar.com/ski-visions-ski-sharp-edge-tuning-tool/


Sent from my iPad using AlpineZone mobile app


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## andrec10 (Nov 7, 2013)

Artech has a lot of great stuff too! Prices are reasonable.


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## bigbog (Nov 7, 2013)

Take your time and get them tuned well, then mine have skied well after initially melting/ironing in a couple+ layers of softer wax to build up bases.  Has worked well....don't know if it's needed anymore...y/n?


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## dlague (Nov 8, 2013)

wa-loaf said:


> Check out these guys: http://www.tognar.com/bevel_edge_tips_file_bevel_ski_snowboard.html
> 
> They have a ton of tuning tips on their site.



Good site!


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## Sky (Nov 12, 2013)

Everyone has their favorite wax brands.  I'm happy with Saucer Wax.  Simple temp ranges...decent (or better) performance.  They have some race overlays as well that I've used.

Ironing...lots of people like to melt wax and scrape and make a mess.  :>  (applogies to all of you who do)  I follow the guidance from SkiMd...and use tthe Wax Wizzard (or however it's spelled).  Crayon the wax onto the base.  Wax Wizzard (friction) the wax onto the base.  Roto Brush (love the roto brush...choked on the price).  :>

Sometimes I use a Swix iron after crayoning the wax to the base, then I scrape, then I roto.  Meh.  If you're going to tune (or a least wax) after each day on snow....it seems to me the crayoning method should be adeqquate...and you burn through lots less wax....and that pile of scraped wax (which probably carries a bunch of debris from your ski...which is why people still use the method) is avoided.

Base bevel...I've heard from several legit tuners to leave it alone.  Side bevel?  2 to 3 degree depending on your ski.  You can check your side angle by puting a sharpie layer on, then use the lower degree bevel and take a few strokes.  See if the sharpie wipes off.

Arctech...great source.  I'm sure the others are just as legit.  Returns and deliveries from Arctech are speedy and problem free.  Just sayin.

Swix has a great tuning vid on line.  Arctech has a DVD.

As for base repair...I leave that to the pros....let them put the stucture back into the base.

Enjoy!!


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## dlague (Nov 12, 2013)

andrec10 said:


> Artech has a lot of great stuff too! Prices are reasonable.



I just bought a bunch of stuff from Artech - Brushes, wax, base and edge filing tools, scraper, and a cool device that locks into my bindings that I can secure in a vice.  Bought a generic vice from Home Depot and bought magnetic plastic covers to protect the ski.  I also built my own bench and for now using a regular iron.

Roto brushes will be next since regular brushes are a lot of extra work and more time consuming - but they are a whole lot cheaper!

Just need to add the finishing touches and a will post a pic!


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## Abubob (Nov 15, 2013)

Another site:http://www.slidewright.com/

I wanted to order the SkiVisions edge tool but Tognar didn't have the stone or ceramic pieces available. Slidewright not only had all the parts but was a little cheaper.


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## bigbog (Nov 16, 2013)

Sky said:


> ..........Crayon the wax onto the base.  Wax Wizzard (friction) the wax onto the base.  Roto Brush (love the roto brush...choked on the price).  :>
> 
> Sometimes I use a Swix iron after crayoning the wax to the base, then I scrape, then I roto.  Meh.  If you're going to tune (or a least wax) after each day on snow....it seems to me the crayoning method should be adeqquate...and you burn through lots less wax....and that pile of scraped wax (which probably carries a bunch of debris from your ski...which is why people still use the method) is avoided.



Usually use the standard blue-stuff..but have always had good results with the Crayon wax whenever used.  Produces a fast base with little, if any, mess...  I still drip a little too much of the standard stuff on with the iron....


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## C-Rex (Nov 18, 2013)

http://www.theclymb.com/stories/tips/everything-need-diy-ski-snowboard-tuning-shop/

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


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## dlague (Nov 19, 2013)

C-Rex said:


> http://www.theclymb.com/stories/tips/everything-need-diy-ski-snowboard-tuning-shop/
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk



Missing brushes!  Looking forward to their next article on this topic!


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## dlague (Nov 19, 2013)

C-Rex said:


> http://www.theclymb.com/stories/tips/everything-need-diy-ski-snowboard-tuning-shop/
> 
> Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk



Missing brushes!  Looking forward to their next article on this topic!


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## El Bishop (Dec 3, 2013)

So I picked up a bunch of tuning gear without really considering WHERE I was going to use it.  Get to our condo and realize there is no good place inside to do it without driving my wife crazy with the mess.  So, is it possible to tune outside?  I don't mind being in the cold but does tuning in sub-freezing conditions have a negative result? I thought I read somewhere that the ski should be "room temp" before beginning.


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## drjeff (Dec 3, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> So I picked up a bunch of tuning gear without really considering WHERE I was going to use it.  Get to our condo and realize there is no good place inside to do it without driving my wife crazy with the mess.  So, is it possible to tune outside?  I don't mind being in the cold but does tuning in sub-freezing conditions have a negative result? I thought I read somewhere that the ski should be "room temp" before beginning.



Room temp definitely helps when it comes to waxing (for many reasons).

I've found that a big plastic tarp down on the floor before you put the bench in the room and then tune, followed by a thorough clean up, with a quick pass over with the vacuum keeps most wive's happy (even when you're tuning in a room that has carpet as I do!  )


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## El Bishop (Dec 3, 2013)

So I picked up a bunch of tuning gear without really considering WHERE I was going to use it.  Get to our condo and realize there is no good place inside to do it without driving my wife crazy with the mess.  So, is it possible to tune outside?  I don't mind being in the cold but does tuning in sub-freezing conditions have a negative result? I thought I read somewhere that the ski should be "room temp" before beginning.


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## Abubob (Dec 3, 2013)

I think the biggest problem would be hot waxing. If you boards are cold and you apply hot wax and an iron to the bottoms you could cause irreparable damage as the base upon expanding could pull away from the core.


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## dlague (Dec 3, 2013)

Room temp - yes!  You can use a rub on technique with cork or brushes even.  

Steps
Go outside use bronze brush to clean base up then wipe off with a cloth

Sharpen edge while out there

Let skis warm up 

Rub on the correct temp wax covering completely

Brush using a nylon brush followed by a horse hair brush or cork.  Cork will generate enough heat to get but to bond well with the base


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## El Bishop (Dec 3, 2013)

Well that's a technique I hadn't considered. Would this work?

Skis at room temp (inside) -- bring them outside for nylon brushing and edge sharpening (diamond stone).

Bring inside for hot wax and let cool to room temp inside

Bring outside again and quickly scrape and brush.

That work or does the cold outside immediately hinder teh scraping/brushing?

Thanks


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## dlague (Dec 3, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> Well that's a technique I hadn't considered. Would this work?
> 
> Skis at room temp (inside) -- bring them outside for nylon brushing and edge sharpening (diamond stone).
> 
> ...



I think that would be fine!


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## andrec10 (Dec 3, 2013)

Get a big painters tarp. Then roll it up and shake it off somewhere oustide out of the way.


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## Sky (Dec 3, 2013)

I use this toolo vs a cork for waxing withou an iron:

http://www.alpineskituning.com/

Rays Way Wax Whizzard (sp?)  Simple really.  PVC pipe with an abbrasive cloth wrapped around it.  Drives the wax into the ski.  Brush and done.

www.Skimd.com recommends this procedure as well.


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## drjeff (Dec 3, 2013)

El Bishop said:


> Well that's a technique I hadn't considered. Would this work?
> 
> Skis at room temp (inside) -- bring them outside for nylon brushing and edge sharpening (diamond stone).
> 
> ...



If you've ever the the top of a mountain team race course, you'll see PLENTY of racers and/or racers parents (depending on the age of the kids racing) scraping and brushing skis in whatever temp it is outside at that moment.  You can scrape at any temp.

Or here's another idea.

I'm a BIG fan of a Stuntwax. (www.stuntwax.com) - it's developed and produced by a few chemists who also happen to be instructors and patrolers.  It's universal temperature, with very good longevity, and the actually recommend that you DON'T scrape. You can if you want, but I can vouch from having over 200 days on the hill and going through well over a dozen bars of their product the last 5 years or so since I was turned on to their product, that 99% of the time, you won't notice any difference between scraping and not scraping (the only exception that I've noticed is when the air and snow temperature are REALLY cold (like below zero cold) when I feel that skating and gliding at slow speed benefit from a scraped and brushed base


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## planb420 (Dec 3, 2013)

Figure I'd post my method here and see what the Veteran waxers out there think. Its a system I have worked on for the past 3 seasons or so, it just got too expensive to take it somewhere to have it done only to get back an inferior product..especially when i get out over 80 days and have 6 boards.



My setup is about as basic as it gets as far as my "Board Vice" goes, my "vice" is simply one 6ft long 2x4 with 2 milk crates attached, and to keep the top sheet undamaged I have placed old kitchen towels over the edges of the milk crates where it contacts the board.

There are many ways to wax your board but I'll write up just a general waxing for riding. (other kinds are like a hot scape or waxing the base for storage).

The Gear you will need: Plastic scraper(s) always best to have more than one (one with a notch for cleaning wax off the edges is ideal but not nessessary, a also dont use metal ones), Gummy Stone (red) to debur edges, cork brush, nylon bristled brush (texture brush), Waxing Iron (NOT A HOUSEHOLD ONE...will work but not nearly as well) trust me and invest your money here...usually about 40-60 bucks for a decent one, Swix "scotch brite" pads, Murphys Citruis Oil Soap spray (base cleaner), and wax (user preference). Safety materials (ganja), beers, and some tunes.

The Process:
Step one: Remove Bindings and ALL HARDWARE (i.e. if its a burton channel remove the sliders) if you dont the metal will heat up once the iron is applied and cause you base to pucker...not the end of the world but it will make things harder to scrape later on.

Step two: Clean the top sheet, channel, inserts from tip to tail with the Murphys and some paper towel.

Step Three: Now flip the board its time to inspect the base/edges and give the base a good prep. Iwill visually check all the edges to look for seperations or gaps. (found one early enough a few seasons ago to have burton replace the board for no charge, so this can pay off) I will also check for deep scratches/core shots (areas of missing ptex all the way to the wood core). Once the inspection is done I will take the nylon brush and brush the entire base tip to tail to remove sand and other imbedded debris.

Step Four: Take your gummy stone to the edges and run it flat along the base edge around the entire board to remove the small burrs that develope while riding, then do the same on the sidewall edge laying it on the edge at the same angle and running it along the edge the same as the base. (This is also the time I would de-tune the edges, but thats for another post) Once you have de-burred your edges run your paper towel with some Murphys on it to clean up the shavings.

Step Five: Lightly spray the base with the Murphys and wipe tip to tail in a firm back an forth motion. This should remove any loose wax particles and any other unwanted particulate on your base before you add you new wax and lock it in the pores. MAKE SURE TO LET THE BASE COMPLETELY DRY OUT from the Murphys before you move on to the next step!!

Step Six: Now its time for the wax, I like to take the bar and do a quick rub down from tip to tail to ensure coverage. Then you take the Iron and melt the wax in a dripping fashion over the base. Make sure you concentrate the majority of the wax along the edges as they are what gets used the most when riding. Dont go crazy in the drip stage...remember whatever extra you put on not only do you have to scrape off but its also lost cost interms of wax. (it will take you a few times to get the perfect amount) When I wax my boards I tend to do a wax blend..... I rub on some Lib Tech Bananna Wax and drip on a very little bit, then I drip apply my Swix Snowboard FX wax over the entire board. (all in the same step so in the next it is melted into the base together) Apply wax to the curved tip and tail sparingly as its a pain in the ass to scrape off later.)

Step Seven: Use your iron to melt the wax into the base from tip to tail (DO NOT move the iron in an edge to edge motion...ONLY TIP TO TAIL) PRO TIP: DONT LEAVE THE IRON IN ONE PLACE OR WORK ONE SPOT TOO LONG, as this could burn the base and close the pores in that spot forever, it could also lead to delam in your board...both suck SO DONT DO IT!

Step Eight: Patience........let the board sit as long as you can, this allows the pores in the base to close and lock in the wax you just worked so hard to lay into it. I prefer to let it sit over night to be sure, but if your in a hurry you can just find a cool spot in your house and place it there for a few hours before moving on.

Step Nine: Scrape and Scrape and Scrape.....and just when you think your done SCRAPE AGAIN!!!!!! Seriously you will hate yourself if you dont get it all so keep going till nothing comes off. When scraping vary the edge your using on your scraper as the miniscule edge variences will keep you from removing the wax efficently (as the edges dull they can be resharpened with a dremel tool). DO THIS TIP TO TAIL AS WELL! (the reason this is stressed is because the board texture runs from tip to tail and you want to maintain that structure as much as possible through this process). If you have a scraper with the notch use it to clean the wax off all edges, if not then use the skinny edge to clean off the rails.

Step Ten: The finish, once all has been scraped off then take your Nylon/Texture brush and use it in a Tip to Tail motion to re-structure your base as well as cleaning wax debris out of said texture. I then like to take my cork brush and with firm even pressure I wipe from Tip to Tail to work in any remaining bits of wax that went unchecked in the earlier steps. (this brush creates friction and helps to melt and distribute the leftover wax into the base, the base should have almost a glossy look) Once the cork brush done I then take a Swix "scotch brite pad" and *gently* wipe from Tip to Tail to re-lay the texture back into the base. (this texture is key to breaking the suction between your board and the thin layer of water formed beneath it while riding.)

Step Eleven: Remount and ENJOY THAT SHIT!​


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## dlague (Dec 3, 2013)

planb420 said:


> Figure I'd post my method here and see what the Veteran waxers out there think. Its a system I have worked on for the past 3 seasons or so, it just got too expensive to take it somewhere to have it done onlyhttp://forums.alpinezone.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=802311 to get back an inferior product..especially when i get out over 80 days and have 6 boards.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



One technique I have seen is to use brushes to brush in a diagonal pattern from center to wick water off to the sides.  Skis however go tip to tail.  Not sure if that is any better for snowboards.


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## planb420 (Dec 3, 2013)

dlague said:


> One technique I have seen is to use brushes to brush in a diagonal pattern from center to wick water off to the sides. Skis however go tip to tail. Not sure if that is any better for snowboards.




Certainly worth a try, thanks for the tip!


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## RootDKJ (Dec 3, 2013)




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## RootDKJ (Dec 3, 2013)




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