# MTB Drive Train Life?



## Talisman (May 27, 2009)

So how long do you expect a MTB drive train to last you?  I'm on my third set of chain, cassette and sprockets and have been averaging ~1,100 miles of fairly sandy and moderately muddy riding before grinding the drive train to failure.  I do lube before each ride and avoid exceptionally wet areas to preserve the trails, brakes and drive train.  Since I have a Cateye to measure distance these averages are based on measurement.

How about you?


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## Greg (May 27, 2009)

I think a thousand plus miles is way more than reasonable. I thought the rule of thumb was to replace the chain/cassette/rings each year, but that obviously depends on how much you ride. Also, if you're not having shifting issues, leave it alone.


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## bvibert (May 27, 2009)

I replace the chain once or twice a year before it gets too stretched, so I don't have to replace the cassette and chain rings as often.  I guess every couple hundred miles or so??  I never really kept track of distance.


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## Greg (May 28, 2009)

So a stretched chain is what wears the rest of the drive train? Are there any indications (aside from actually measuring it) that a chain needs to replaced. I guess my question is if the bike shifts okay, is there anything to be concerned with?


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## Marc (May 28, 2009)

Greg said:


> So a stretched chain is what wears the rest of the drive train? Are there any indications (aside from actually measuring it) that a chain needs to replaced. I guess my question is if the bike shifts okay, is there anything to be concerned with?



A stretched chain is one of the things that wears the drivetrain.  Dirt, or any abrasives, impact and low lubrication also will wear the drivetrain.  In a word, it's friction, in any form, that does it.

You can have a stretched chain that shifts fine and is still wearing down the drivetrain.  Keeping everything well lubed will reduce the speed with which it wears the cogs, but it won't stop the fact that every chain pin that rubs against the side of the cog tooth rather than seating nicely in the groove will eventually eat away at the cog tooth and result in that shark fin shape.

Also, dirt really exacerbates the issue... I'd submit it's as important to keep the drivetrain clean as it is to keep it lubed up.  And choosing the appropriate lube for the conditions you ride in also plays a role.


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## marcski (May 28, 2009)

My bike is now about 5 years old...And I ride quite often...probably around 1000 miles a year.  

I'm on my 3rd chain and I've replaced the cassette just once, last summer/fall.  Original chain rings up front.  Less is more.  Like Greg, I'm in the "if it ain't broke (skipping) I don't do a thing" group.


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## bvibert (Jun 1, 2009)

Marc said:


> A stretched chain is one of the things that wears the drivetrain.  Dirt, or any abrasives, impact and low lubrication also will wear the drivetrain.  In a word, it's friction, in any form, that does it.
> 
> You can have a stretched chain that shifts fine and is still wearing down the drivetrain.  Keeping everything well lubed will reduce the speed with which it wears the cogs, but it won't stop the fact that every chain pin that rubs against the side of the cog tooth rather than seating nicely in the groove will eventually eat away at the cog tooth and result in that shark fin shape.
> 
> Also, dirt really exacerbates the issue... I'd submit it's as important to keep the drivetrain clean as it is to keep it lubed up.  And choosing the appropriate lube for the conditions you ride in also plays a role.



I agree with what you said, but you didn't answer the question; how long do you expect your MTB drive train to last?

Do you replace the chain often in an effort to avoid replacing the cassette and rings, or just let it all wear in together and replace it as a set when the time comes?

Aside from abrasives I think that the type of rider has an effect on the life of the drive train.  A smoother spinner who never shifts under load will probably get a lot more life out of their parts.  A masher (like me) and/or someone who aggressively shifts under load will have to replace their chain and/or cassette/rings more often, I'd imagine.


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## Talisman (Jun 1, 2009)

bvibert said:


> I agree with what you said, but you didn't answer the question; how long do you expect your MTB drive train to last?
> 
> Do you replace the chain often in an effort to avoid replacing the cassette and rings, or just let it all wear in together and replace it as a set when the time comes?



There are two schools of thought: replace the drive train parts as they wear or replace the drive train parts as a set.  From my motorcycle days, I know that just replacing the chain wore the sprockets quickly and believe changing the main drive components makes for smoother shifting.

I do believe in lubrication and mountain bikes exist in a tough environment for roller chains in NE with the mud and sand.  No wonder the Single Speed community keeps growning


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## Marc (Jun 2, 2009)

bvibert said:


> I agree with what you said, but you didn't answer the question; how long do you expect your MTB drive train to last?
> 
> Do you replace the chain often in an effort to avoid replacing the cassette and rings, or just let it all wear in together and replace it as a set when the time comes?
> 
> Aside from abrasives I think that the type of rider has an effect on the life of the drive train.  A smoother spinner who never shifts under load will probably get a lot more life out of their parts.  A masher (like me) and/or someone who aggressively shifts under load will have to replace their chain and/or cassette/rings more often, I'd imagine.



I replace mine when it's good and ready 

I replace the chain once a year or more depending on how much I'm riding... road and MTB.

And definitely the more force you put on a chain the quicker it will stretch.  Shifting under load is not just a way to wear things, it's asking to break things, so it really shouldn't be anyone's riding 'style.'



Talisman said:


> There are two schools of thought: replace the drive train parts as they wear or replace the drive train parts as a set.  From my motorcycle days, I know that just replacing the chain wore the sprockets quickly and believe changing the main drive components makes for smoother shifting.
> 
> I do believe in lubrication and mountain bikes exist in a tough environment for roller chains in NE with the mud and sand.  No wonder the Single Speed community keeps growning



It depends on if you replace the chain before or after it stretches beyond a certain point.  

As far as SS is concerned.. well, sometimes it seems like a cult.  I'd rather wait for more advancements in Rohloffs and other internally geared hubs.


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