# Wax



## Dr Skimeister (Jan 14, 2009)

This may well have been covered here and I'm just not finding the discussion, but.....where do those that do get wax at a reasonable cost?

Heck, while I'm asking.....any iron suggestions will be appreciated. I dropped my Dakine iron last week just to watch the plastic body explode on the floor.


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## BeanoNYC (Jan 14, 2009)

I usually buy a kilo of swix universal.

You can get the chugger iron.  (Scroll Down)


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## Warp Daddy (Jan 14, 2009)

BeanoNYC said:


> I usually buy a kilo of swix universal.
> 
> You can get the chugger iron.  (Scroll Down)



Same  place same iron same wax -- does a great job !


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## GrilledSteezeSandwich (Jan 14, 2009)

www.racewax.com


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## drjeff (Jan 14, 2009)

As I've posted before, I'm a HUGE fan of stuntwax (www.stuntwax.com).  Great stuff across almost all temps/humidity/snow crystal structure.  Great longevity - you can go 3 full days 25-30 runs and still have good wax protection, and they DON'T want you to scrape!!!


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## bvibert (Jan 14, 2009)

I use candle wax.  The stuff from Yankee Candle makes my skis smell good.


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## Puck it (Jan 14, 2009)

Parrafin rocks for all most all condition and cheap.


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## skibum9995 (Jan 14, 2009)

http://www.artechski.com/

Great customer service and super fast shipping.


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## mondeo (Jan 14, 2009)

here

Good price, fantastic results.


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## wa-loaf (Jan 14, 2009)

drjeff said:


> As I've posted before, I'm a HUGE fan of stuntwax (www.stuntwax.com).  Great stuff across almost all temps/humidity/snow crystal structure.  Great longevity - you can go 3 full days 25-30 runs and still have good wax protection, and they DON'T want you to scrape!!!



x2


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## awf170 (Jan 14, 2009)

What is this wax you speak of?  Is it also true that people sharpen their edges?












I'm at about 50 days of skiing since I have done anything to my skis.  I think my skis hate me.


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## mondeo (Jan 14, 2009)

awf170 said:


> I'm at about 50 days of skiing since I have done anything to my skis.


I doubt that. Haven't you applied glue to them?


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## awf170 (Jan 14, 2009)

mondeo said:


> I doubt that. Haven't you applied glue to them?




Good point, I did put plenty of skin glue on them.  I think there is also some rock stuck in the base, if that counts.


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## RootDKJ (Jan 15, 2009)

GrilledSteezeSandwich said:


> www.racewax.com



Racewax is pretty damn good stuff.  

I also like the Toko System 3, but only buy it if I see it on a super discounted price.  Otherwise I use only the Racewax hydrocarbon.

http://www.racewax.com/product/PB-1...ocarbon_Wax_300_g_Two_150_g_Bars__PB1020.html


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## SKIQUATTRO (Jan 17, 2009)

i get all my gear (wax. iron, files etc) from TOGNAR.COM


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## Beetlenut (Jan 17, 2009)

I only wax in the spring to keep from sticking in the slush and manky stuff.


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## snoseek (Jan 17, 2009)

http://www.saucerwax.net/page/page/5515942.htm


best bang for the buck IMO.


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## RootDKJ (Jan 18, 2009)

Wax question - I understand the reason to use a hard wax in cold conditions.  Why use a softer wax in warm conditions?


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## BeanoNYC (Jan 19, 2009)

RootDKJ said:


> Wax question - I understand the reason to use a hard wax in cold conditions.  Why use a softer wax in warm conditions?



Soft wax will repel the rounder-softer-wetter snow much better than a hard wax.  

That's the same reasoning for using the wider teeth side of a structure bar if your going all out on prepping your base.  The water will channel through the wider structure grooves.  Powder will get stuck so you need tiny grooves for it.


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## andyzee (Jan 19, 2009)

I like this place, it's on the way to Killington: http://www.reliableracing.com/ . They have plenty of wax and good tuning tools. With regards to an iron, I just use a regular iron, steam holes an all, just make sure steam isn't on. Been doing this for years no problem. I typically buy my wax end of season at 1/2 price.


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## Dr Skimeister (Jan 19, 2009)

I wound up buying 1000g of  Swix universal wax from www.tognar.com. It comes as a big bag of wax pellets. I melted some down in a Pyrex bowl on the stovetop until it was liquified. Once It cooled, I carved three bars out of the bowl. 

Looks like the bag of pellets will last a long time.


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## mlctvt (Jan 20, 2009)

drjeff said:


> As I've posted before, I'm a HUGE fan of stuntwax (www.stuntwax.com).  Great stuff across almost all temps/humidity/snow crystal structure.  Great longevity - you can go 3 full days 25-30 runs and still have good wax protection, and they DON'T want you to scrape!!!



Do you do a full hot wax job, iron and all , every 3 days out? I do mine about twice a year with applications of liquid wax very other day. I'm just trrying to figure out what I "should" be doing. When I bring my skis in for a yearly tune the guys at the ski shop always say my skis are in good shape and there is still wax on the bases.


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## drjeff (Jan 20, 2009)

mlctvt said:


> Do you do a full hot wax job, iron and all , every 3 days out? I do mine about twice a year with applications of liquid wax very other day. I'm just trrying to figure out what I "should" be doing. When I bring my skis in for a yearly tune the guys at the ski shop always say my skis are in good shape and there is still wax on the bases.



I pretty much tune my familes skis every weekend(basically every 3 days on snow).  My wife and I just like the fresh glide and when needed, a fresh edge.  As for my daughters skis, well tuning a pair of 100cm skis just doesn't take very long at all 

"Should" be doing, is a personal preference.  If you're using liquid wax every other day, that should keep the bases "moist" with wax and oxidation free, thus giving you better glide, especially in the flat sections and on wet snow.  Then it just gets down to what do the edges feel like to you????  If you have a noticeable improvement in edge grip just after a tune, then you might want to increase the frequency of getting the edges done.  As for wax still being present.  Most skis even after ALOT of days on the snow will still have wax present in the middle of the ski base.  Where you'll find the base is skied out of wax is in the 1/2" to maybe 1" of base surface immediately adjacent to the edge.  That's where your bases spend more time in contact with the snow, and where the bases "dry out" first.  It's very easy to see if you have black bases, where this strip of base next to the edge will have a grayish/ frosted appearance compared to a deeper black/shinier appearance in the middle. A really dry base will also start to have little almost hair like pieces in the dried out area, these will affect your glide, most noticeably in the flats and wet snow situations


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## Marc (Jan 20, 2009)

awf170 said:


> Good point, I did put plenty of skin glue on them.  I think there is also some rock stuck in the base, if that counts.



I actually recommend a regular rock structuring of one's base.  Mine last got done courtesy of the Washington auto road.


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## andyzee (Jan 20, 2009)

Marc said:


> I actually recommend a regular rock structuring of one's base.  Mine last got done courtesy of the Washington auto road.




Marc, very disappointing. Knowing you, I figured you would have recommended ear wax.


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## bvibert (Jan 20, 2009)

Marc said:


> I actually recommend a regular rock structuring of one's base.  Mine last got done courtesy of the Washington auto road.



I just structured the bases of my bump skis using brick, then rock... After Greg suggested that we could ski back to our car after a night of skiing.  He was right, the perfect mix of snow and abrasive surfaces to get the job done.  I had previously not considered the use of brick since rock is what most commonly available.


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## derek (Jan 27, 2009)

hey stuntwax people,

What do you use to clean and prep your base with? They recommend scraping every 3 or 4 tunes. Their website mentions a base prep wax but I can not seem to locate it anywhere? Thanks.


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## drjeff (Jan 27, 2009)

derek said:


> hey stuntwax people,
> 
> What do you use to clean and prep your base with? They recommend scraping every 3 or 4 tunes. Their website mentions a base prep wax but I can not seem to locate it anywhere? Thanks.



I just do a "hot scrape" with some of the large supply of warm weather wax that I've acquired over the years to clean and prep the base.  All yuo need to do to hot scrape the wax, is wax in as usual, then without giving the ski a chance to fully cool, as soon as the iron leaves the ski base, pick up your scraper and scrape until you can't get anymore to scrape off, reheat the base with the iron(without adding any new wax) and scrape again, repeat until not residual wax is.

All that base prep wax is is essentially a soft, parafin based wax that's non temperature specific.  In a bind, any warm temp, soft wax will do.


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## Marc (Jan 27, 2009)

Mineral spirits or other convenient non polar solvent would clean wax off of a ski base.


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## Marc (Jan 27, 2009)

Don't tell Bob I told you though, and use the appropriate PPE when dealing with volatile organics.


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## bvibert (Jan 27, 2009)

Marc said:


> Don't tell Bob I told you though, and use the appropriate PPE when dealing with volatile organics.



Bob who?  Villa??


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## Marc (Jan 27, 2009)

bvibert said:


> Bob who?  Villa??



Bob R.


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## bvibert (Jan 27, 2009)

Marc said:


> Bobr.



I'm only slightly less confused by that, guess I missed something..


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## Marc (Jan 27, 2009)

bvibert said:


> I'm only slightly less confused by that, guess I missed something..



Was an obscure reference to this thread-

http://forums.alpinezone.com/36312-...polar-solvent-marc-learns-more-chemistry.html


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## bvibert (Jan 27, 2009)

Marc said:


> Was an obscure reference to this thread-
> 
> http://forums.alpinezone.com/36312-...polar-solvent-marc-learns-more-chemistry.html



Ah, that was a long time ago.  I did remember that you gave us a chemistry lesson about bi-polar alcoholics, or whatever it was you were rambling on about in that thread.


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