# Entry level MTB questions



## mondeo (Mar 24, 2010)

Familiar with road bikes, but no real clue with MTBs. I know decent HTs (in general) start around $600, figure I'd go with $800-1000 for a first bike so I don't feel the need to move up all that quickly. Worked with my road bike - got a higher end aluminum bike and feel no need to go higher. But there's also probably a much larger difference between a high end hard tail and a lower end FS than a high end aluminum road bike and a low end carbon road bike.

So...

Component levels: what's minimum, and where will I stop noticing a difference if I go any higher?

Even if I get a high end HT, will it make me want to move to FS any later? Or am I still going to be buying a FS in a year or two?

How do LBS test rides go for MTBs? Pretty easy with road bikes, just a ride around the block. But MTBs aren't for riding around the block...

For anyone that is a roadie as well, do bike companies carry a similar feel across their product lineups? I know ski companies tend to do this - Heads and Volkls tend to be stiff, Dynastars soft, etc. Is someone who likes Jamis road bikes likely to like Jamis MTBs?


----------



## RootDKJ (Mar 24, 2010)

I started 4 years ago with a slightly better then entry level HT and I've been satisified with it.  I've never been on a FS so I really can't say what the experience is like in comparison.  My LBS let me test ride around the parking lot (in a strip mall), but that's it.  

JORBA (Jersey Off Road  Bike Assn) sponsors a few demo days, but I think they are usually later in the season.  Reps from several manufactures (5-6) had brought in trailers with several bikes that folks could take out into the woods for a test ride.  

Also, check out both 26" and 29" MTBs.


----------



## powhunter (Mar 25, 2010)

mondeo said:


> Familiar with road bikes, but no real clue with MTBs. I know decent HTs (in general) start around $600, figure I'd go with $800-1000 for a first bike so I don't feel the need to move up all that quickly. Worked with my road bike - got a higher end aluminum bike and feel no need to go higher. But there's also probably a much larger difference between a high end hard tail and a lower end FS than a high end aluminum road bike and a low end carbon road bike.
> 
> So...
> 
> ...



Knowing the way you ski....Your gonna want to huck off stuff in the woods...IMO a FS bike would be the way to go


----------



## gorgonzola (Mar 25, 2010)

typically with component levels the higher ones are a matter of shaving a few grams here and there so I doubt a beginner or non racer would really tell the difference. I recently threw an alivio rd on my ht to save a few $ and have to chuckle as i don't really see much if any difference in actual shifting from the xt...

regarding ht/fs/26/29/650b the thing is to be realistic about what kind of riding you see yourself doing - be it tight twisty st, flowy, aggressive trail riding, dh, bike park etc. . i rarely drop anything anything over 2' so my preference would be a ht but have neck/shoulder issues that make the fs much more comfy for our pa rocky trails...


----------



## gmcunni (Mar 25, 2010)

powhunter said:


> Knowing the way you ski....Your gonna want to huck off stuff in the woods...IMO a FS bike would be the way to go



+1.

i regret spending $700 on a HT. if i was starting over i'd probably spend $300 on a HT and after the first season, if i ended up liking MTBing, upgrade to a good FS.


----------



## bvibert (Mar 25, 2010)

Starting off on a FS is cheating...


----------



## MR. evil (Mar 25, 2010)

bvibert said:


> Starting off on a FS is cheating...



Agreed! Starting on a HT will teach bike skills that will make you a much better rider when you eventually get a FS. 

As for components  get the best fork you can as that's the big ticket item on most decent HT's. For the other stuff Shimmano LX / SLX and SRAM X7 are good starting points. Also Ask the shop to take off the big ring and throw on a bashguard. Unless you XC racing 2x9 is the way to go.


----------



## mondeo (Mar 25, 2010)

Oh, and despite being used to clipless on the road bike, I'm guessing still a good idea to start with platforms?


----------



## MR. evil (Mar 25, 2010)

mondeo said:


> Oh, and despite being used to clipless on the road bike, I'm guessing still a good idea to start with platforms?



It shouldn't be an issue if your already used them. 

I rode clipless for a very long time and now prefer platforms.


----------



## Marc (Apr 1, 2010)

mondeo said:


> Oh, and despite being used to clipless on the road bike, I'm guessing still a good idea to start with platforms?



Start with clipless.  Start with hard tail.

Don't let anyone make you think not having a full suspension means you can't huck stuff.  See: trials riding.

It might not feel as good, but as long as you have a good solid rear wheel... double butted 3 cross with a sun rhyno lite and a decent hub is probably what I'd go with for value and durability, especially if you're just starting out.


----------



## SkaPig (Apr 4, 2010)

mondeo said:


> Familiar with road bikes, but no real clue with MTBs. I know decent HTs (in general) start around $600, figure I'd go with $800-1000 for a first bike so I don't feel the need to move up all that quickly. Worked with my road bike - got a higher end aluminum bike and feel no need to go higher. But there's also probably a much larger difference between a high end hard tail and a lower end FS than a high end aluminum road bike and a low end carbon road bike.
> 
> So...
> 
> ...



As far as components go... I'd be most concerned with a good quality wheel set and fork.  A higher quality fork can make a huge difference, while any Shimano shifting/drivetrain components above the deore line are mostly bling.

HT/FS will make a much bigger change in your riding experience than any high end components, so if you see yourself making that change in the future, I doubt high end components will delay the process (unless you spend all your cash on the HT and can't afford another bike anytime soon!)

Regarding test rides... sure you probably won't be able to smoke some downhill and go muddin' with the thing, but if you get creative you should be able to at least determine a preference among certain models.  Take advantage of curbs and landscaping features...  Also try different sizes of the same models...

Good luck!


----------



## mondeo (Apr 5, 2010)

Rode a couple Gary Fishers (Cobia, Marlin,) Cannondale F7, and Raleigh Talus 4.0 today. Liked the Gary Fisher most. Figure I'll keep the HT around as a backup and for technical rides, so it's probably not a bad idea to get decent level of componentry

Still like to get to ride a couple more brands. Seems like for road bikes the shops would stock more brands across the range, the few I've been to have been pretty limited for MTB.


----------



## Marc (Apr 6, 2010)

mondeo said:


> Rode a couple Gary Fishers (Cobia, Marlin,) Cannondale F7, and Raleigh Talus 4.0 today. Liked the Gary Fisher most. Figure I'll keep the HT around as a backup and for technical rides, so it's probably not a bad idea to get decent level of componentry
> 
> Still like to get to ride a couple more brands. Seems like for road bikes the shops would stock more brands across the range, the few I've been to have been pretty limited for MTB.



Definitely depends on the shop, but it's certainly a lot different than the last time I bought a bike from a bike shop in the late 90's, when the MTB craze was still huge.  MTB's as far as the eye could see.... still segregated into only "XC" or "downhill" although there were a few starting to be billed as "dual slalom."


----------

