# removing SKS Yakima lock cylinders



## cantdog (Feb 19, 2006)

I bought a new rack for my new car as the one on my previous car was not compatible.  I would like to remove the lock cylinders from the old rack and reuse them and I have both keys-the master and the one for locking/unlocking.  The locking/unlocking key does just fine for what it's for-turning the mechanism 90' as needed.  However, all the master key does is fit inside the lock.  It won't turn at all in any of the 4 cylinders.  Since the master key is symmetrical, it should not matter which way it's inserted.  When I look at the assembly from behind, it appears as though the goal is to turn the mechanism 45/135' for removal of the cylinder.  Sadly, the regular key can not be removed when the mechanism is in this 45/135' position.

Is there anyone out there who can tell me what I am doing wrong?  Of all the forums I regularly use, this one seems to be the most topic friendly for my situation.


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## BeanoNYC (Feb 19, 2006)

Hi there!  Are you instering your master/cant key in an unlocked cylinder?


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## cantdog (Feb 20, 2006)

Yes.  Is that the secret?  Do it when the cylinder is locked??   :dunce:


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## BeanoNYC (Feb 20, 2006)

cantdog said:
			
		

> Yes.  Is that the secret?  Do it when the cylinder is locked??   :dunce:



Well, I believe on my Thule cylinders, they need to be unlocked.   With Yakima however, they may need to be in another position.  You may want to play with that as a variable.  Your local ski shop may know.

Edit:  I found some  Instructions  for you. Notice "part 5"on removing the cylinder.  It does need to be unlocked, but there is something about the master key need be fully inserted.  I'm wondering if you need to push that key in a little further until you get a "click" then pull directly out from there. Part 4 says you need to keep your thumb on the cylinder to remove the master key for an install, so pulling directly out kind of makes sense.  Try this.
1) using regular key, unlock cylinder
2) instert master key all the way (you should feel or get a "click" of some sort)
3) make sure nothing is obstructing the path of the cylinder and pull the master, along with the cylinder directly out.

I hope this works!  Let me know what the outcome is.  Good luck!


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## cantdog (Feb 20, 2006)

Ok, I just unlocked the cylinders and followed the procedure in the Acrobat file.  Even though the master key was in as far as it would go(same depth as other key) and I could shake a tiny little play in the rotation, none of them will budge.   :angry: 

How about some WD-40?


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## BeanoNYC (Feb 20, 2006)

cantdog said:
			
		

> Ok, I just unlocked the cylinders and followed the procedure in the Acrobat file.  Even though the master key was in as far as it would go(same depth as other key) and I could shake a tiny little play in the rotation, none of them will budge.   :angry:
> 
> How about some WD-40?



From what I get from the instructions there should be no need for any type of rotation.  It's just a straight pull out.  Try sticking the key in, don't turn the key, but put pressure on the key to one side, then slide straight out.  Try holding the casing for the cylinder in place with one hand while performing the key maneuver with the other so you don't get much play with the casing and cylinder as one.  (I'm not sure if that makes much sense.  :-? )  Basically the casing (rack) should stay in place and the cylinder should move out independently.  Yes, a little WD-40 on a Q-tip,  put on carefully around the outside of the cylinder may help a bit.

Anyone else have any ideas?


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## bvibert (Feb 21, 2006)

From what I can remember Beano has the procedure correct, no turning just pull straight out.  Its been a couple of years though.  I'll look at my stuff at home, but it may take me a few days...


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## Marc (Feb 24, 2006)

Hmm... I have a Yakima rack but have never taken out the lock cores.  So I'm useless.


Big surprise.


I'll leave you with the old addage:

"If it moves and shouldn't, use duct tape; if it doesn't move and should, use WD-40."


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## cantdog (Mar 15, 2006)

Despite all advice given here, plus a few off the net suggestions, I still can't remove them.  However, a regular visitor to my workplace has kindly volunteered to take a stab at it sometime in the near future.  I eagerly await this event and hope he will be successful.


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## bvibert (Mar 16, 2006)

I forgot all about this.  I went looking for master key last night so I could try on my locks, but I haven't been able to find it yet...


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## ctenidae (Mar 16, 2006)

Use a hammer.

I have Thule racks, but no master key (that I'm aware of, anyway), so I'm in much the same boat as Marc on this one. I'm going to dump him over the side if he doesn't get off the ice chest and hand me a beer, though.


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## bvibert (Mar 29, 2006)

cantdog, did you ever figure it out?  I finally found my master key the other day.  Looks like all you need to do is turn the lock the unlocked position with the regular key, then insert the master key and pull the lock straight out.  If it doesn't come out you may try prying on it with a small screw driver or something....


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## cantdog (Mar 30, 2006)

No dice.

I was giving it regular applications of WD-40, but I have recently switched to a penetrating oil.  If all I have to do is insert the master key and pull it straight out without rotating, do I need to press the master key to a side or the op or bottom while attempting this?


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## bvibert (Mar 30, 2006)

No, there's nothing else you need to do expect insert the master key and pull the lock out.  It MUST be in the UN-LOCKED position though, otherwise it won't come out.  If the lock turns with the regular key then it should be loose enough to pull out with the master key.


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## marcski (Mar 30, 2006)

I've used copious amounts of WD-40 and that worked for me a few years back when I got a new car.


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