# 'Go to' gear combo



## Greg (May 25, 2009)

What's your "go to" gear combo?

For me, I usually start pedaling in 2-1 (middle ring, largest cog). It's also my usual gearing for slow techy sections. Towards the end of last season, I started trying to bypass using the small ring entirely, but this season I've found some good gearing using it lately which is not too low, but low enough to help on climbs when the gas tank is just about empty.


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## mondeo (May 25, 2009)

Whatever feels right at the time.


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## bvibert (May 25, 2009)

I usually start pedaling in whatever gear I was in when I stopped.  Sometimes that's less than optimal and I fail.  I guess 2-4 or 2-5 is my go to, that's where I tend to be the most, I think.


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## JD (May 25, 2009)

On my bike the gear is 2:1.  I run a 36:18.   Sometimes I walk.


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## Trekchick (May 26, 2009)

32:16 works for me on m SS, but I like a bit of a stiffer gear when I'm riding my HT.


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## bvibert (Jun 1, 2009)

I think I'd be doing a LOT of walking if 2:1 was my only option.


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## marcski (Jun 1, 2009)

I go with what feels right...based on the terrain and my energy level.  You don't really want to be pushing around a big cog if you don't have to.......spin baby spin!


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## Greg (Jun 1, 2009)

Again, on long grueling climbs, I start out 2-1. Usually, when I start to really fade, I'll drop to 1-1. The problem is that gearing is so load, I start lifting up front. I need to start remembering to begin climbs at 2-2 or 2-3, then when I drop to the granny gear it won't be so low. Dropping down on the chainring is more reliable than trying to get the chain up on the rear cog while actively climbing, I've found.


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## bvibert (Jun 1, 2009)

Greg said:


> Dropping down on the chainring is more reliable than trying to get the chain up on the rear cog while actively climbing, I've found.



I've found the opposite.  I can't usually drop into the granny unless I'm spinning on relatively flat ground.  I can usually shift the rear into a lower gear by letting off pressure on the pedals slightly right at the time of the shift.


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## JD (Jun 2, 2009)

You guys should never try and shift under load.  Basic rule.  If you have to downshift on a climb, you should time it in a place where you can get a few good hard stroke and throw the shift while you just ghost pedal.  You should never crank on your rear derailure while cranking hard on your pedals, and you should never try and drop down in front letting your front D just scrape along your chain waiting to push it down.  You need to pick a gear and stick with it, and or learn to "push the clutch in" at key poins in a climb where you can relieve tension on the chain so your derailures can shift easily.  MTB 101 there...that's why it's so important to shift BEFORE the hill.  Greg...if your climbing in 1:1..slide up onto the nose of you saddle and keep you chest low to the bars....use the upstroke more, you have less chance of spinning out or wheeling..
2:1 is fairly stiff for around here.  Bottom line, I like having more gear for flat and rolling trail and don't mind the odd walk.  I ussually have to walk when most folks hit a low gear so that they really don't drop me that much and I can ussually keep them in sight.  When you're grinding away in 1:2, 1:3, I can pretty much walk that fast....plus it gives me an excuse to walk the shitty climbs.


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## bvibert (Jun 2, 2009)

JD said:


> You guys should never try and shift under load.  Basic rule.  If you have to downshift on a climb, you should time it in a place where you can get a few good hard stroke and throw the shift while you just ghost pedal.  You should never crank on your rear derailure while cranking hard on your pedals, and you should never try and drop down in front letting your front D just scrape along your chain waiting to push it down.  You need to pick a gear and stick with it, and or learn to "push the clutch in" at key poins in a climb where you can relieve tension on the chain so your derailures can shift easily.  MTB 101 there...that's why it's so important to shift BEFORE the hill.



I don't shift under load, at least not on purpose, that's what I meant by this:



bvibert said:


> I can usually shift the rear into a lower gear by letting off pressure on the pedals slightly right at the time of the shift.



If there isn't a spot where I can let up on the pedaling for a second then I tough it out in whatever gear I'm in, or stop and walk.  I do usually try to be in the correct gear ahead of time, but sometimes I screw up and need to readjust.  Luckily I have pretty strong legs so I can usually power through a climb if I get stuck in too high of a gear, as long as I'm not too tired (that's when I tend to shift more often).

Thanks for the advice though.  I think there's a lot of people that don't know this.


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## JD (Jun 2, 2009)

sorry...one of those times again.  From greg post it sounded like he was by saying it was easier to shift his rear derailure on the climb then his front....Don't meant o sound like a dick...sometimes it just happens.  It was late when I got home....


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## bvibert (Jun 2, 2009)

JD said:


> sorry...one of those times again.  From greg post it sounded like he was by saying it was easier to shift his rear derailure on the climb then his front....Don't meant o sound like a dick...sometimes it just happens.  It was late when I got home....



Nothing to be sorry about at all.  I can't speak for Greg, maybe he does shift under load.

I'm the one who actually said that it was easier to shift my rear on the climb, but only if I was able to back off on the pedaling for a second.

I didn't think you sounded like a dick at all, that was very sage advice.  My frail ego just can't handle people thinking that I'm going around shifting under load, so I had to clarify.


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## Gremf (Jun 2, 2009)

32:19t on my 29er SSer.  Guess there is no choice in that department.  On my other SSer, I just went to 32:20t because I wanted the extra width of the cog (+2t from an 18t) to minimize chain slap on the bottom chainstay.

However, on the full susser, I ditched the third ring for bash guard and always start out somewhere in that neighborhood.  I only ask for Granny's assistance on really steep and technical climbs, other wise I try to stay in the "middle" for the entire ride.


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## Grassi21 (Jun 2, 2009)

I spend most of the time on my geared big on the middle ring and the lower end of my cassette.  The SS is 32:16 I think.


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## Greg (Jun 2, 2009)

JD said:


> sorry...one of those times again.  From greg post it sounded like he was by saying it was easier to shift his rear derailure on the climb then his front....Don't meant o sound like a dick...sometimes it just happens.  It was late when I got home....



Actually, I think it's easier to shift the front while climbing. And no I don't do it under heavy load. I don't know a lot, but I know enough to back off while shifting... :dunce: :lol:


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