# MTB suspension settings - pressure, rebound, etc.



## Greg (Aug 4, 2008)

So after realizing yesterday that riding a FS bike is an entire different animal than my HT with a poser spring fork, I decided to do some quick research and fiddling. I noticed that I used probably only 2/3 of the available travel on my bike after last night's ride. Anyway, I found this:

http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tech_center/owners_manuals/07/eng/rear_shocks/float_rp2.htm

I think I have the sag set better. Granted I set it based on my 5 beer deep buzz trying to balance on the bike with no help, but I think I have the sag pretty accurately set to about 25% of the available travel. This included releasing some air from the shock which in my feeble mind would make sense as to why I didn't use more of the full range of travel on yesterday's ride.

As far as rebound in the rear, I have about 8 clicks of adjustment. Considering my relative light weight for my height (165 lbs. at a bit over 6') and since my riding right now only includes rough terrain and very small (< 18") drops, I went with a slower rebound and set the shock at about 25% of the available rebound (2 clicks).

Up front, I couldn't find any good literature for my fork (Rock Shox Recon 351) so I checked the air pressure and set the PSI for 50% of my body weight (~ 85 PSI). I set the compression lockout all the way off and there seems to be another setting at the bottom of the fork which I think is rebound and also set that at about 25%

Anyone see any flaws in my totally newbie and relatively uninformed approach? Riding tomorrow to see if I can even detect any differences.


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## awf170 (Aug 4, 2008)

Not sure how great of an idea this is, but it seems good to me. I just put a tie wrap (elastic band on the rear) on the shock and see how close I come to bottoming out.  Right now I'm set so that I only bottom out on the nastiest landings (pilot error), and not that hard.  I come pretty darn close a lot of the time but the very end of the travel is usually super stiff so getting close is good because you are using your whole shock.  Also I have my rebound set somewhere in the middle.  Too slow and little rocks at high speeds suck, too fast and climbing is a killer.  I like the rear shock slower since it keeps the tire gripped when climbing.  I can wheelie the front tire so have a quick rebound isn't a big a deal, but with a fast rebound on the rear shock I get thrown around wicked badly.  Also, on my bike (DW-link) the recommended sag is 30-35%.  Once you get down to 25% the pedal bob is brutal.  You suspension looks very similar so you might want to give 30ish a chance.  I set mine at 30%, but I would set it higher if wasn't doing drops since 35% rides better.


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## Greg (Aug 5, 2008)

awf170 said:


> Not sure how great of an idea this is, but it seems good to me. I just put a tie wrap (elastic band on the rear) on the shock and see how close I come to bottoming out.  Right now I'm set so that I only bottom out on the nastiest landings (pilot error), and not that hard.  I come pretty darn close a lot of the time but the very end of the travel is usually super stiff so getting close is good because you are using your whole shock.  Also I have my rebound set somewhere in the middle.  Too slow and little rocks at high speeds suck, too fast and climbing is a killer.  I like the rear shock slower since it keeps the tire gripped when climbing.  I can wheelie the front tire so have a quick rebound isn't a big a deal, but with a fast rebound on the rear shock I get thrown around wicked badly.  Also, on my bike (DW-link) the recommended sag is 30-35%.  Once you get down to 25% the pedal bob is brutal.  You suspension looks very similar so you might want to give 30ish a chance.  I set mine at 30%, but I would set it higher if wasn't doing drops since 35% rides better.



I've read about the tie wrap method. That or just gauge it by the dirt line on the fork. I have a very accessible lockout on my rear shock for climbs. Haven't actually used it yet on a big climb...


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## MR. evil (Aug 5, 2008)

Greg said:


> I've read about the tie wrap method. That or just gauge it by the dirt line on the fork. I have a very accessible lockout on my rear shock for climbs. Haven't actually used it yet on a big climb...



Lockouts are only good for smoother climbs. On technical climbs you want the rear suspension active for good traction. One thing most people don't realize is that the rear suspension on a MTB was developed for traction, not comfort. If Fox recomends 25% sag for you shock than run wiith that. You can tweak it out a bit but that seems like a good strating point. Just throw you pump shock in your backpack for the next few rides until you get things dialed in. 

Just be glad you only have a few setting to play with. My new rear shock (DHX5 coil) has like 5 adjustments
rebound
spring pre-load
air pressure
pro-pedal (15 settings)
bottom out resistance

It is going to take me weeks to get that thing dialed in.


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## o3jeff (Aug 5, 2008)

Boy am I glad I only got air pressure and rebound and that I got lucky and found a pressure I like on it pretty quick.


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## Marc (Aug 5, 2008)

awf170 said:


> You suspension looks very similar so you might want to give 30ish a chance.  I set mine at 30%, but I would set it higher if wasn't doing drops since 35% rides better.



Might look similar but it isn't a DW link bike, so Greg should go by whatever literature he's got.

I usually set the rebound damping to start with by matching it up with where I am in the range of the preload.  So on an air shock, if I have the preload set to 50% of the recommended range, I set the rebound damping to about 50%.  You can fine tune it by feel from there on out.

For any shock, which when you get right down to, despite all the bells an whistles, what you're really dealing with is a damped spring.  So for any shock, front or rear, the most important adjustments are setting the preload appropriate to your weight and setting the rebound damping, and on some suspension that comes with it, the compression damping.


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